Technical > Home Improvement > Experience with sound "proofing" or isolation?

Experience with sound "proofing" or isolation?

Re: Experience with sound "proofing" or isolation?

Thanks!

I also found this site »www.tmsoundproofing.com/soundpro···ics.html with a ton of information.

reply to garys_2k
It's better to use off-set walls. Two separate walls, with the plates an inch away. Then, you can use batt insulation between, and then ten-test, and 5/8 drywall on the studs. It's extremely quiet.
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Better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.

reply to garys_2k
In the recording studio we built we used the offset studs with carpet padding in between ("weaved" between the studs). We found it worked better than insulation as it was heavy. We also used 5/8" drywall. 2 layers of 3/8" glued together works well too.

For the isolation rooms it worked well. We could drop a guitar amp in there cranked to full distortion and barely hear it; most noise came through the door.

For the control room we did use two separate walls and double angled glass.

Carpeting the walls worked well to, but not something you would probably want.
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Scott Henion

Embedded Systems Consultant,
SHDesigns home - DIY Welder

reply to garys_2k
That's how it's done in apartments and duplexes. It's a 2 x 6 wall, but framed with 2 x 4's. They usually put rockwool batt insulation in between (Roxul). They also normally do 2 X 5/8" drywall, but that might be for fire and not sound.
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...because I care.

reply to garys_2k
Look into resilient channel, decouples the drywall from the studs. Also be careful with any penetrations in the walls, like you mentioned outlets are the worst. Best thing to do is mount the box on the exterior of the wall and caulk the hole where you pull the wires through.

reply to garys_2k
So many comment so that I need read this for a long time
But wonderful

reply to garys_2k
Also useful »www.quietrock.com/

reply to garys_2k
I created a quiet room for my den (to watch movies and not bother the neighbors, or hear them either- I'm in a townhome).
Now, my room is below grade (poured concrete exterior walls). I created an air gap between the wall and exterior wall, with foam insulation on the cement wall. Then batting on the interior wall. I was going to stagger but that was too much (2x6 plate with 2x4 staggered in/out and insulation snaked horizontally).
I have metal studs, so I used full drywall adhesive on the vertical walls and ceiling (code btw) to prevent any rattle. Then I put this on the only wall that divides the den from room that exits out:
»www.allnoisecontrol.com/products···rier.cfm
It was expensive and heavy. I fastened with screws and washers, taping all joints.
When in the den, I never knew we had a storm till the lights went out.
Things I learned:
-need to insulate doors/jams to prevent door rattle (subwoofer...)
-need to insulate HVAC room door and walls as outside noise comes down the vent stack (yes, I can hear a bird on the roof! tweet tweet).
-I should have doubled the sheetrock (two 5/8"s, glues and screwed). Having good insulation, subtle air gap and thick walls means reduced noise transmission. Actually, I wish I did that for the bedrooms and ceilings BEFORE I remodeled...
-PVC drain for waste water, even wrapped, is noise source (ah, there is a benefit to cast iron afterall)
-air ducts can be heard "wushing"...
-little gaps can transmit ALOT of noise...
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Splat

reply to garys_2k
Lead sheeting (comes in rolls) could also be fastened to the backside of one of the walls (inside the wall cavity). This dampens out really low frequency sounds (the rumbles from sub-woofers). It isn't cheap - but it'll also protect you from x-rays

Quietrock has a metal layer in it - similar sort of idea to the lead sheet.

If you wanted it to be super quiet:

a) double wall - separated by 1"
b) 5/8" Quietrock on isolation channel on both outside faces of each wall and on the inside of one of the hidden wall faces
c) Lead sheeting on the inside of the other wall
d) Roxul Safe-n-sound in each wall cavity
e) Acoustic sealant at all locations where framing meets floor/ceiling. Apply beads of acoustic sealant to top/bottom framing plates.
f) Heavy mastic compound surrounding all electrical boxes in the two walls

reply to garys_2k
In the broadcast radio business, yes we use staggered studs for sound isolation in the studios.

There are simple things that help all the way to to very expensive. For home use the simple things are likely as far as you want to go.
Some of the simple things..
separate walls, (like you mentioned), insulation in the walls, and double layer sheet rock staggered, and different thickness sheet rock on each side. If you can acoustically isolate the studs from the floor and ceiling that will help greatly as well.

reply to garys_2k
Cheapest way is to insulate the wall.

If you dont mind the extra expense, then do the offset wall with insullation.

And Nunya, yeah 2 sheests of 5/8 gypsum board is for a fire wall.
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Getting it Done.

reply to garys_2k
Put this stuff between 2 sheets of drywall:

»www.greengluecompany.com/

And do the staggered stud layout but use rockwool as the insulating material.

And keep the bass turned down.

reply to SmokChsr
Of course it does, however I consider most of the users here to be able to comprehend that, so I didnt bother to point that out again.
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Getting it Done.