 Beebe join:2002-10-25 Beebe, AR | My First Solar Site Here are the solar panels and battery box | .JPG/thumb.jpg) Inside the battery box 10 AGM batteries, 100lb each. | .JPG/thumb.jpg) Solar charge controller | .JPG/thumb.jpg) Here is the tower in relation to the panels |
I've never set up a solar site so I've been reading previous posts and researching on the net. It's almost complete. I've actually now hooked up the load, and I'm running 3 ubiquiti sectors, 1 powerbridge and a Mikrotik 10 port router. So far so good. It's been running about 3 days, and I checked the voltage coming off the batteries at about 11am today. I got 27.4v whatever that means.
Feel free to comment on what I've done wrong or need to change.
Thanks, Roger |
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 TomS_Git-r-donePremium,MVM join:2002-07-19 London, UK kudos:4 | For a first try I suppose I can say "good work", but I have a couple of comments:
1. It would be good to see some proper bus bars used to gang up the feeds from your batteries, and electrical isolators to mount them to the wall of the box. Im not so sure about bolting them through the wall as you have done... Im sure that breaks a couple of electrical safety standards or rules or something - someone with more experience with US laws might comment further. 2. Unfortunately, I see someone stumbling across this setup and making off with all of your equipment. The battery box being the prime target, it doesnt look like it would be too hard to break it down.
A little more on #2, the company I worked for had some solar sites, and at least one of them was a frequent victim of theft by someone who fancied some solar gear. We had a metal cabinet, locked, bolted, whatever - it didnt stop them breaking in and making off with batteries and chargers. They also made off with our panels too. And this was in a fenced compound...
We even installed cameras that would automatically start uploading images to an FTP server when they detected movement, but the slimy bugger still managed to get away with it. |
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 Beebe join:2002-10-25 Beebe, AR | Thanks for the comments. I honestly never thought about using bus bars for connecting up the batteries.
As far as the theft goes, I was a little worried about that. Not sure what I can do about it though, other than lock the box and maybe put a security camera up there.
Thanks, Roger |
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 TomS_Git-r-donePremium,MVM join:2002-07-19 London, UK kudos:4 | Yeah I suppose I dont really have any suggestions about how to prevent theft. It looks like a secluded spot, and that gives people enough time to do what they want and make a clean getaway.
We tried several times to prevent theft from our sites, and in the end we just faced it as a reality. All the locks in the world wont stop a determined thief, they just keep the honest people honest.
But a couple more suggestions...
See if you can get some insurance for your kit there, at least that will help cover some/all of the cost if someone does decide to raid it. We had that type of setup for our sites.
Also if someone does happen to raid your kit, if you have good standing with the community perhaps put up some flyers or a small ad in the paper offering a cash reward to any info that leads to the arrest of the thief.
And about the only other suggestion I can come up with is review the telecommunication regulations that apply to you and put up some signs to the effect of "tampering with telecommunications infrastructure is an offence punishable by ....". We had these signs on all of our compounds because it was fact. At least people could not say we didnt warn them!
Unfortunately thieves tend to be smart. "Warning High Voltage" signs probably wont deter them, and a fence is just a chance to try out the bolt cutters - a minor annoyance.
Good luck!  |
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 WHT join:2010-03-26 Rosston, TX kudos:5 | reply to Beebe The good idea was using same length cables to each battery. You can get pre-drilled copper buss bars and red plastic insulators. If electric code compliance was an issue, run a heavy gauge wire from buss bars though wood wall through a metal or noncombustible plastic sleeve.
Even if they are sealed batteries, I'd still have some venting. I use several half inch holes plugged with green ScotchBright spaced a few inches apart vertically up the opposite and opposing corners.
And prime and paint it it. Oh, drain holes in the bottom if rain gets inside and ScotchBright plug t keep bugs out.
/edit Looks really good. |
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 | reply to Beebe Looks good for first solar site!!! how much did it cost you to set this site up? Also what size solar panels are you using? |
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 | reply to Beebe take serial numbers of all your stuff! If it does get stolen and found, the only way you'll get it back is to identify it.
I'd also suggest marking it somehow else, maybe hide a mark somewhere, take a picture!
With iphones being so common, it's really easy to take pics of serial numbers now |
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 Jim_in_VA join:2004-07-11 Cobbs Creek, VA kudos:4 Reviews:
·Northern Neck Wi..
| reply to Beebe maybe a couple of 'WARNING this site has video surveillance' signs would deter the novice thief, or 'DANGER - HIGH VOLTAGE' ... or an exploding dye pack  -- ... need help? »evdo-tips.com/ |
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 WHT join:2010-03-26 Rosston, TX kudos:5 | Shiny rail trim under lip of cover will hold fingerprints. |
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 Chele join:2003-07-23 kudos:1 | reply to Beebe Get a couple of steel job-site tool boxes(very rugged but small) or shinny truck aluminum tool boxes(very light and don't get hot). You can get them(both) at very good prices through www.craigslist.com(online classifieds)--if there is one near you. If you get the jobsite tool box paint it with "Ultra white" roofing paint to keep it cool--don't paint the aluminum boxes, they stay very cool in full sun. We got an aluminum toolbox for a full size truck for $60 in exceptional shape. |
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 | reply to Beebe How much sun will those panels get? it looks like only 3 hours a day when the sun is directly overhead otherwise trees will be blocking it.
An 8 watt rocket typically requires a 100 watt panel with an unobstructed view of the sky. So I would suggest perhaps more solar panels.
One thing i have seen for batteries is to use a copper bar connecting the terminals in parallel. On the left side of the + bar you connect the +, and on the right end you connect the - That way the batteries all get equally charged. Or so im told.
Wind. Those bars holding the panels in place. in an open area probably wouldnt stand up to wind.
Battery box. Its made of wood. I suggest in future look at stainless steel. You can buy large toolboxes from a hardware or auto super store. They also come with locks on them. I picked up one the other day that holds 6 batteries for $50
Detering theft Make up a nice sign that says Microwave Radio Radiation from Transmission equipment in this area is above the FCC recomended levels and unsafe for human exposure. Keep at least 15m away from any telecommunication equipment beyond this point. Cotact Taylor Communications network operations on 06-9299082 for a remote powerdown before approaching. See sign example here. Sorry i dont have my template for the above message on my pc at the moment.

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 | reply to Beebe So ray to power 2 rockets you would need a 200-230 watt solar panel? then if you want to power 4 rockets you would need 2 200-230 watt solar panel. Then so on..... And about 6-8 deep cycle batteries? |
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 | reply to Beebe is that a guyed tower by chance? (I can't see any cables, but that could be me)
If it is, I'd be temped to combine solar with a wind generator. A fairly small one will do about 400 watts which will charge up your batteries in no time!
Do you have some way of tracking the batter voltage? maybe over snmp? That way you know if the system is working or not? |
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 | reply to treichhart said by treichhart:So ray to power 2 rockets you would need a 200-230 watt solar panel? then if you want to power 4 rockets you would need 2 200-230 watt solar panel. Then so on..... And about 6-8 deep cycle batteries? yes A panel of 120 watts with ~8 hours of light on an overcast day (so the panel is capturing at 20% of its 120 watts) is 192 watts captured A rocket will use 192 watts of power in a day (24 hours x 8 watts)
Then you just need 1x 100ah battery for the rocket. With 100 amp hours divide by half (no drop below 50% rule) is 50 amp hours. or approx 600 watts That means the battery will run the rocket for approx 3 days with no light on the panel at all, but even on a cloudy day, the battery wont drop below approx 85% overnight. Then it will almost be fully charged again the next day - even if its cloudy.
To make the battery last longer, you keep the cycles small - so a regular 20% drop will lower the life of the battery more than a regular 10% drop.
In the last two years, solar panels have halved in price so you really can use one-per-radio
Here is a solar wiki article i wrote a couple of years ago. »wiki.ubnt.com/Planning_a_wisp_so···ed_tower
The calculations in the article are simplified and WHT will probably point out I should be using insolation rather than sunlight hours - but in reality, you just spend a little bit extra and overbuild. You wont regret it.
I feel you have overbuilt with the batteries, but its not good to leave them for long periods of time discharged to 60-70% You wanna use the power, and get them charged back up asap. |
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 public join:2002-01-19 Santa Clara, CA | reply to Beebe said by Beebe:Feel free to comment on what I've done wrong or need to change. Parallel batteries need individual fuses to prevent disasters. Bus bars and proper feedthroughs are recommended. Also install a remote voltage/current/temp monitor, ip camera, you already have connection on site. |
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 Chele join:2003-07-23 kudos:1 | said by public:said by Beebe:Feel free to comment on what I've done wrong or need to change. Parallel batteries need individual fuses to prevent disasters. Bus bars and proper feedthroughs are recommended. Also install a remote voltage/current/temp monitor, ip camera, you already have connection on site. What would be a proper fuse rating for the batteries? |
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 public join:2002-01-19 Santa Clara, CA | said by Chele:What would be a proper fuse rating for the batteries? Load is probably light, so the rating would be to allow available charge current. 20A may be a good compromise. |
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 Beebe join:2002-10-25 Beebe, AR | Good point on the fuses, I was going to ask about that. I'll sort that out ASAP.
Thanks, Roger |
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 | reply to Beebe Looks good - but I have run a solar only site for a few years and I can promise you will want more panels. During the winter/over cast days you would be surprised how fast those batteries drain. I would double if not triple the amount of panels. Its not fun to go start a genny at 2 am when its snowing...trust me
Additionally is that correct angle in your area for the panels? I know in Southern CA its 45 degrees.
Also did you insulate under the batteries?
Throw a handful of rat/mouse poison - they love warm places and can get into anything.
Have your batteries tested every year (individually) before winter starts.
Purchase a couple gas generators and battery chargers - you will need to use a generator a few times a year - no matter how much you overkill your system. |
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 | reply to Beebe I would throw in a 400w wind turbine in there!!!! |
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