| Best way to cut grooves through a 2x4 and 2x12. Hello. I need to cut a straight, arced and semi-circle groove clear through a 2x4 and 2x12 (1 1/2") lumber. Advance and stop the vid to :40 seconds or 1:59 and you will see what I'm talking about.
»www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJl2ePsiN2M
That rig is made from 3/4" MDF and costs $300. I would like to make a version out of 2x4's and a 2x12. My main problem is how to cut the grooves accurately and safely. I'm thinking about using 1/4" hardware so the grooves need to be 1/4".
I don't currently own a router. If it's the best option I'll probably grab the cheap Black and Decker plunge router for $50. »www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RP25···0IEFIBO/ I would also need to know what bits I will need.
Thanks for your time!
--
If we quit voting, will they all just go away? |
|
Reviews:
 ·AT&T U-Verse
| Rough cut using a jig saw, finish with a router or even a file if you manage to cut reasonably well. You'll need multiple passes if you plan on doing it with just a router, so you'll also need a way of following a template.
1 1/2" seems overkill if you plan on replicating that contraption. |
|
| reply to balloonshark
I'd use a router for that. You might be able to use a Dremel but I've never tried it for that before. Possibly just using a 1/4" drill bit or spade bit to drill a series of holes then a sander, file, or jig saw to smooth it out.
I'd drill a starter hole or 2 then switch to the router and finish up. Seems like a very easy task for a router to me. I do some casual woodworking. I've build (2) end tables, (1) king headboard, (9) picture frames, and (1) rocking chair so far. |
|
 MsradellP.E.Premium
join:2008-12-25
Louisville, KY | reply to balloonshark
I would expect that by the time you buy all the required equipment can go through the hassle of building it you would be farther ahead just buying the original instead of trying to build your own. |
|
|
|
| reply to balloonshark
It's always more expensive to build something 'right' then buy a prefab for what I've done so far. That said stuff lasts and looks way better when you do it yourself.
If you only need the tools for a single project consider craigslist for a router or Harbor Freight. All you need is for it to work for 1-2 hours tops then resell it on craigslist. |
|
| reply to Msradell
said by Msradell:I would expect that by the time you buy all the required equipment can go through the hassle of building it you would be farther ahead just buying the original instead of trying to build your own.
I have several projects to prove that.
Even though I was able to justify purchasing new toys..uh, I mean tools it still never turned out as "finished" as I would have liked.
On the up side I did learn a lot and had fun building it. |
|
 alkizmo
join:2007-06-25
Pierrefonds, QC
kudos:1 | said by averagedude:On the up side I did learn a lot and had fun building it.
AKA lego for adults |
|
 cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to balloonshark
I wouldn't even bother with the slots. Bolt one end permanently, then drill a hole at a fixed number of stops along the way. Use a decent sized dowel to lock it into place through both boards.
Alternatively, just drill as many holes at how ever many positions you want in the 2x12 and just have the 2x4 rest on it. You can stagger them such that the adjustment between different height is just a little bit but the contact point on the 2x4 moves depending on which hole it's in. I can draw a picture if this isn't clear.
Either method no routing is necessary and as long as you don't put too much distance between holes, you should be able to cover any height usage. It's not "infinitely" adjustable, but close enough. Plus you won't have to buy the clamp hardware, worry about it loosening during game play, or crushing the wood over time with repeated use to keep things tight. |
|
| reply to alkizmo
said by alkizmo:said by averagedude:On the up side I did learn a lot and had fun building it.
AKA lego for adults Nope way! Lego's are still Lego's no matter your age.  |
|
sk1939Premium
join:2010-10-23
Washington, DC
kudos:9 Reviews:
 ·T-Mobile US
| said by Sennheizer:said by alkizmo:said by averagedude:On the up side I did learn a lot and had fun building it.
AKA lego for adults Nope way! Lego's are still Lego's no matter your age. Erector sets for adults. |
|
| reply to balloonshark
Thanks for your suggestions. I'm not sure if a dremel can cut 1 1/2" or if it has the power to make the cuts. It would certainly be easy to handle and I already have a Proxxon rotary tool.
I like the idea of just using holes instead of grooves. The only problems I see is how to make them accurate (no drill press) and the spacing. If I wasn't satisfied with them I would have to go with grooves and grooving lumber that has already holes sounds a bit dangerous unless done by hand. I'm not writing this idea off though as it would save money. The hardware for the project will cost $50 before shipping.
If I were to use a router, what kind of bit would be needed? Would I need a straight, spiral, end mill or something else?
The reason I'm making this as opposed to buying it is because it's a lot cheaper. I also get an excuse to buy tools. I would only need 1- 2x12x8' and 3-2x4x8'. I could go with 1" lumber (3/4") or go with the MDF. If I get a sheet of MDF I will only be using 1/3 of the sheet and I would have to have it cut as I can't haul a full sheet.
--
If we quit voting, will they all just go away? |
|
iknowPremium
join:2012-03-25 | reply to balloonshark
ask here. »www.routerforums.com/ it's the best router forum around, and members there make some truly incredible things. a router is the best way to go for this, since slots are the better choice. a dremel would burn out quickly trying to make that. |
|
cdruGo ColtsPremium,MVM
join:2003-05-14
Fort Wayne, IN
kudos:7 | reply to balloonshark
said by balloonshark:I like the idea of just using holes instead of grooves. The only problems I see is how to make them accurate (no drill press) and the spacing. A scrap 2x4 with 1 good hole drilled in it can make a good jig. The flutes of the bit don't do the work, only the end, so as long as you don't purposely try to go side to side you'd be fine.
As for the spacing, just draw a row of grids. Draw a line and space your first two holes say 1" apart. Draw a line 1" above that one, but stagger the holes so that one rests in the middle of the two already drilled and one to the left. Rinse and repeat. 1" may be too far apart, or high for each row. Or you may want to go three holes in each row.
Alternatively, sitting down with a piece of paper, a ruler, and a protractor and a little bit of time will get you what you need. Figure out what your maximum radius would be where you would have had the slot (approximate would work). Mark 90 degrees and whatever your minimum angle is. Evenly mark off your major degree marks (say every 5 degrees. Draw your lines from your vertex to each mark. See if you can lay out a suitable grid based on those lines. Two staggered arcs alternating probably would get you what you need.
For your height adjustment, kind of do the same idea, but instead of angles you are just doing height. Drill a series of holes 1/2" or 1" in two boards. Adjusting the height then is just a matter of removing two bolts raising, and putting the bolts back in two new pairs of holes. |
|
| reply to balloonshark
I'd probably go MDF. It's a lot easier to work with, and honestly, the weight will probably help stabilize it a bit. As long as its not in a basement or something, MDF will work well. Any router should make quick work of MDF, but make sure you do it outside, the dust generated by working with MDF is incredible. |
|
cjskiThe Wheel Weaves As The Wheel WillPremium
join:2001-01-04
Sun City, CA | reply to cdru
. |
|
cjskiThe Wheel Weaves As The Wheel WillPremium
join:2001-01-04
Sun City, CA | reply to cdru
said by cdru:I wouldn't even bother with the slots. Bolt one end permanently, then drill a hole at a fixed number of stops along the way. Use a decent sized dowel to lock it into place through both boards.
Alternatively, just drill as many holes at how ever many positions you want in the 2x12 and just have the 2x4 rest on it. You can stagger them such that the adjustment between different height is just a little bit but the contact point on the 2x4 moves depending on which hole it's in. I can draw a picture if this isn't clear.
Either method no routing is necessary and as long as you don't put too much distance between holes, you should be able to cover any height usage. It's not "infinitely" adjustable, but close enough. Plus you won't have to buy the clamp hardware, worry about it loosening during game play, or crushing the wood over time with repeated use to keep things tight.
This. |
|
| reply to balloonshark
Thanks again all!
Using holes rather than grooves is a good idea but I just thought of something. How would the height adjustable arms hold together when making adjustments? I would need to hold the entire upper assembly when removing and replacing the bolts/dowels correct? To be honest I doubt that I would be adjusting it often once I find a comfortable position unless I'm folding it completely up like in the last part of the video.
cdru, Thanks for the tips on the hole spacing. I understand most of what your describing and it should help.
--
If we quit voting, will they all just go away? |
|
