 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | Running Cat 5 from attic to downstairs outlet See my crude drawing of our two-story house. We have coax running from the attic down to Room A downstairs. From there, another piece of coax runs back up to the first floor ceiling, over a doorway, and down to an outlet in Room B, where the exterior wall seems to be inaccessible from the attic.
I'd like to follow the coax with Cat 5. The drop from the attic to Room A is relatively simple. The problem is turning two corners to get from A to B. I thought about using the existing coax to pull a string back, but the coax seems to be stapled to something up high where I can't reach it.
Any thoughts on how to do this without tearing up the wall? I spent two summers wiring commercial properties with Cat 5, so I have some experience with fish tape, pull string, and such. However, those were mostly straight shots with access to crawl spaces. I'm also aware of other solutions such as Ethernet over electrical or coax, but I already have a 100-foot Cat 5 cable sitting in the attic and two dual coax/Ethernet wall plates and don't want to spend more money. |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | So you don't know what's the path taken by the coax between Room A and Room B? For all you know, it could make quite a few detours, and not just be a straight line.
Since you managed to run the CAT5 to Room A, it means you know the path it takes from the attic.
Why not try to run another Cat5 from the attic directly to room b?
The only way to bring Cat5 to Room A and B would be to run TWO cat5 cables anyway.
Or, what I did is run my network cables from the basement ceiling up into the rooms above. |
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | I don't think I can access the exterior wall in Room B from the attic. The roof tapers down, there are nails sticking out of the rafters, and I just don't have enough room to squeeze in there and even see what I'm doing. And if it was doable, I figure they would have run the coax straight from the attic to B in the first place.
I don't understand why I would need two cables. If I pull a bunch of slack down from the attic to A, I should have enough to feed directly to B.
There's no basement or crawl space here. I've never seen a house with a basement my entire life in California and Florida. From what I've read, in Florida it's because of the high water table and flooding. |
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 More FiberPremium,MVM join:2005-09-26 West Chester, PA kudos:28 | said by quatrix:I don't understand why I would need two cables. Depends on what you're trying to do.
If you want ethernet outlets in both room A and room B, you will need to install a switch in room A or run two cables from the attic (I'm assuming your cable modem/router is in the attic). You can't simply daisy-chain cat5 the way you can coax. -- There are 10 kinds of people in the world; those who understand binary and those who don't.
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 djrobx join:2000-05-31 Valencia, CA kudos:2 Reviews:
·VOIPo
·Verizon Wireless..
·RoadRunner Cable
·AT&T U-Verse
| reply to quatrix If you have a clear shot from the attic to room A you should consider yourself fortunate to have that blessing.
In my two story house it's impossible to run anything from the attic to the first floor without tearing things up. "Horizontal" runs are even more challenging because you either have to find a soffit/bulkhead somewhere or go through studs.
I resorted to using DECA (DirecTV's dirt-cheap-on-ebay version of MoCA) for areas I couldn't reach with CAT5 cost effectively . -- AT&T U-Hearse Your funeral. Delivered.
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | reply to More Fiber said by More Fiber:You can't simply daisy-chain cat5 the way you can coax. I know. I'm only running it through A because it's the only apparent route to B. I'm not terminating the Cat 5 in A.
And no, the modem and main router are both in B. Comcast's wiring goes from their box outside to the attic and then fans out from there. I'm just trying to hard-wire a bedroom upstairs because the wireless is spotty. |
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | reply to djrobx said by djrobx:In my two story house it's impossible to run anything from the attic to the first floor without tearing things up. "Horizontal" runs are even more challenging because you either have to find a soffit/bulkhead somewhere or go through studs. Actually I haven't made the run from the attic to A yet either. That's why I want to follow the existing coax run so most of the work is already done for me. I'm just hoping that any openings are large enough to fit another cable through. But it's sounding more and more like I'll have to abandon the Cat 5 goal. |
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 billaustinthey call me Mr. BillPremium,MVM join:2001-10-13 North Las Vegas, NV kudos:3 | What's above Room B? Run a cable through the floor to the room above and install another wireless access point. |
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 leiboldPremium,MVM join:2002-07-09 Sunnyvale, CA kudos:6 Reviews:
·SONIC.NET
| reply to quatrix I perfectly understand the varies reasons to avoid wireless and I have hardwired ethernet in most rooms. For those places where I don't have an ethernet outlet I'm using powerline ethernet adapters (I have had good success with the older 85Mbps Netgear products).
As for trying to follow the existing route of the coax it is probably futile. You are much better off looking from where to where you need the cable run and try to find the easiest route to traverse walls and ceilings. Exterior walls can be problematic not only because of the difficulty to access them from the attic but also because they are often filled with insulation. In general, interior walls are easier for vertical drops. -- Got some spare cpu cycles ? Join Team Helix or Team Starfire! |
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 alkizmo join:2007-06-25 Pierrefonds, QC kudos:1 | reply to quatrix said by quatrix:And no, the modem and main router are both in B. Comcast's wiring goes from their box outside to the attic and then fans out from there. I'm just trying to hard-wire a bedroom upstairs because the wireless is spotty. Ok so the network starting point is Room B. Then from Room B, you want to run Cat5 to the attic. I'm guessing you were planning to then drop the Cat5 from the attic into an upstairs bedroom.
If that's the case, why not, just drill a hole in the ceiling from inside a closet to go upstairs? |
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | reply to quatrix Above Room B (the office) is the master bedroom. Putting an access point directly above won't make much of a difference. The signal is only a problem at the opposite corner of the house. I recently replaced both 802.11g routers (the main gateway and a wireless bridge) with 802.11n, and it made no difference. Right now DD-WRT shows an SNR of 5 (which DD-WRT calls a "signal quality" of 29%) to the bridge and 1 (25%) to an Android phone in the same bedroom. |
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 nunyaWho is John Galt?Premium,MVM join:2000-12-23 O Fallon, MO kudos:8 Reviews:
·Charter
·surpasshosting
| reply to quatrix MOCA. If the coax was installed when the walls were open, it's going to be stapled. Things are a lot different when the walls are open. Save yourself some headache. Get on Amazon, order some MOCA adapters, and don't sweat it. I have 20,000 ft of Cat5. I still use MOCA adapters before chopping holes in peoples houses for a simple ethernet connection. -- Because I care... |
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | reply to quatrix Yeah, I've been doing some research on coax piggybacking. It sounds like there can be problems with splitters and amplifiers though. If I went with that solution, the signal would go through an amp and a couple of splitters. One end is also the coax leg that feeds DC power to the amp. |
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 The EPlease allow me to retortPremium join:2002-05-26 Burnaby, BC | reply to quatrix As others mentioned, trying to follow the coax route isn't likely. (bummer). Is running an exterior line a possibility? What type of siding is your house clad with? Any way to hide/ protect the CAT5 behind siding, etc? -- "All opinions stated by me are solely my views and do not reflect the views of my employer, this site, or even myself depending on my level of sanity at the moment" |
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 nunyaWho is John Galt?Premium,MVM join:2000-12-23 O Fallon, MO kudos:8 | reply to quatrix I've found splitters not to be that big of an issue. There's always a way around the AMP. Insert and remove the MOCA before. -- Because I care... |
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 quatrixPremium join:2005-02-11 South FL kudos:2 | reply to The E said by The E:Is running an exterior line a possibility? What type of siding is your house clad with? Any way to hide/ protect the CAT5 behind siding, etc? There's a thought. There's already a (different) coax line running down the wall outside B, thanks to a Comcast installer who didn't want to sort out the existing wiring. I could run the Cat 5 alongside it from the attic and then I'd only have to get it from the attic to the upstairs bedroom, which I can do.
Aesthetics aren't an issue (the coax is black against a light-colored wall anyway), but is Cat 5 reasonably weatherproof? We get afternoon thunderstorms all summer around here. |
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 eakes join:2000-10-20 Richardson, TX | reply to quatrix Garden variety Cat5 will not last long outside. If you take that route, use electrical conduit (gray plastic type) with boxes at top and bottom where the cable enters the house.
Were it my home I would run the cable inside through the walls. Since the room above the office is a MBr, there must be a closet. I would open (1x2 foot) an area of sheetrock on an inside wall of the closet. Using a long, flexible drill bit, drill into the attic and the room below. I now have a cavity to feed a cable from attic to first floor. Open the ceiling in the office where the cable comes down and feed it to an inside wall and down toward the floor.
Patch the sheetrock and everything is good to go! Alternately, if I didn't want to patch the sheetrock, I would just install 'inspection plates' over the holes (painted wall and ceiling color). |
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 SnakeoilIgnore Button. The coward's feature.Premium join:2000-08-05 Mentor, OH kudos:1 Reviews:
·RoadRunner Cable
·magicjack.com
| reply to quatrix I'm curious as to why the need for networking cable.
I moved into a new home and needed to extend my network upstairs. So I want fast and dirty and used a power line network adapter. The newer models have some decent bandwidth. I've used a switch on them as well, and it works fine.
My more modern devices use wifi. But I still like the power line adapter. As you aren't required to snake lines through walls and cut holes. The first power line adapter I had was rated for 10mb, and lasted for 6 years. The new one is rated for about 50mb [If I remember correctly] and seems to work as well as the old model. Granted I only have 1 PC currently using that wired branch of the network. Before I had a switch with 3 PCs using the adapter, and it worked fine. Granted they were only running to crunch seti units/fold at home [I gave up on that years ago], and those 2 extra PCs have since been retired to the trash heap. -- Care Bear This: If anything I say offends you, then you have a problem. As I am a stranger to you, so my words should have zero emotional impact on you. If they do, please seek help from Dr. Phil.
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 | Sometimes it's nice to have a wired network to support the wireless (extenders) and to have a more flexible network than to use powerline adapters.
I recently completed a network project where I ran a cat6 drop to each bedroom, one in a rec room, 4 to my living room, all terminating in my closet to a patch panel and gigabit switch. My motivation was that my desktop which hosts an ftp server was unable to fully utilize my FiOS because it's faster than the G-wireless can provide. I also want to put a media server in my network stack.
Wireless is nice but there are situations where wired is preferred. |
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 nunyaWho is John Galt?Premium,MVM join:2000-12-23 O Fallon, MO kudos:8 Reviews:
·Charter
·surpasshosting
| reply to Snakeoil I've had a lot of problems with powerline and HPNA over the years. I'd say they are both about dead. MOCA has worked flawlessly for me on every installation. You can jam a lot onto the bandwidth in a piece of coax. Even RG59 and old 600 MHz splitters don't seem to bother it. -- Because I care... |
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