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[Modem] What is my best bet in buying a new modem on my own? »
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ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

reply to d_l
Re: Interesting and major DSL performance problem

My splitter arrived and after studying the links posted earlier I am ready to start wiring things up.

This is my understanding of the hook-up. Can you confirm whether it is correct?
T9 wires to T1
T8 wires to T2
W1 wires to T3
W2 wires to T4
Home Run LineA to T5
Home Run LineB to T6

I am also not clear about what we may need to do to ground the dedicated-shielded line.



d_l
Barsoom
Premium,MVM
join:2002-12-08
Reno, NV

reply to ejg1
I'm not sure if it was is necessary, but I wired my splitter more like this: »Pacbell FAQ »How do I install a splitter? which is a little different arrangement than the way wiring on the Keptels is usually run.

I used wiring "peanuts" to splice a short run of Cat5e from the splitter to the existing inside wiring because that IW couldn't be moved to connect to the lugs on the splitter. So my wiring essentially ended up like this:

T9 half of pair 1 in the short run of new Cat5e to T1
T8 half of pair 1 in the short run of new Cat5e to T2
W1 spliced to half of pair 2 in the short run of new Cat5e to T3
W2 spliced to half of pair 2 in the short run of new Cat5e to T4
Half of pair A in home run to T5
Half of pair A in home run to T6

Because that short run of Cat5e was exposed outside of the NID and the Corning Seicor box, I put a drip loop in it and covered it with a split wiring loom to protect it from UV rays.


wayjac
Premium,MVM
join:2001-12-22
Indy
·AT&T Midwest

reply to ejg1
You can use the red/green binding post on one or two of the unused test jacks for connection points, just remove the short rj11 from the ones you're going to use

There may be a ground connection behind the cover on the telco side of the nid. A pocket screwdriver will unscrew the fastner

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

To open the door of the telco side of the nid you need a special hex bit that is hollow in the middle as there is a protrusion in the exact center of the screw to keep just anyone from using just any old hex wrench from opening the thing. Think I will run to the HW store to see if I can find one.

Most likely there is a ground in there I can use. Except, I don't know what to do ground my system at the moment. When the time comes, one of you guys will poke me I hope....

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

reply to d_l
Thanks D_L, It seems like we are on the same page with the hook-up then. I can't wait till my cable shows up !

hey would you happen to know if the telco could ever be persuaded to swap out their CAT3 for my provided CAT6e from the street to their nid?. I just love over killing !


wayjac
Premium,MVM
join:2001-12-22
Indy
·AT&T Midwest

reply to ejg1
said by ejg1 See Profile :

To open the door of the telco side of the nid you need a special hex bit that is hollow in the middle as there is a protrusion in the exact center of the screw to keep just anyone from using just any old hex wrench from opening the thing. Think I will run to the HW store to see if I can find one.
Most all nid's I've seen have that tamper-proof fastner but a pocket screwdriver will work just as well as the "special hex bit" and it won't damage the fastner



ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA
There is a proper ground in the forbidden land.


wayjac
Premium,MVM
join:2001-12-22
Indy
I don't know what's behind the telco cover on your nid......I think you should have a look

mhetterm

join:2001-11-01
Altadena, CA
·AT&T U-Verse

reply to ejg1
said by ejg1 See Profile :

Most likely there is a ground in there I can use. Except, I don't know what to do ground my system at the moment. When the time comes, one of you guys will poke me I hope....
That metal "strip" with 8 or so screws in it to the right of your NID, near the bottom, looks like a ground bus bar to me ...

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

I validated there is a heavy duty ground in the Telco nid side.

I could tie the ground to that bar you referenced if needed. Right now it is not unused for anything.

I just dont know what to do with my shielded (STP) CAT homerun line and how/what way that should be grounded?


d_l
Barsoom
Premium,MVM
join:2002-12-08
Reno, NV
reply to ejg1
Isn't there a bare wire, a drain wire, inside the foil of the shielding? That wire is what should be grounded.

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

Finally the cable got delivered to my door.

I wired everything up at the nid. The only difficult thing was grounding the shielded CAT6 as discussed earlier. The ground line is somewhat thin and fragile and if you move it around frequently it will break like the pop top ring on a soda can.

So the home run line is now hot and just sitting there all coiled up. I know I did something right because the phone in the house works!

Time for a break since there is something I am not so sure of.

The nid is wired up exactly as described before but I have a question about polarity of the HR line.

I am only using a single twisted pair so does it matter if white goes to one terminal of the jack and blue the other? or vise verse?



d_l
Barsoom
Premium,MVM
join:2002-12-08
Reno, NV

reply to ejg1
I'm not sure how critical the correct colors are to the operation, but if you wire it correctly to the standard convention, someone else checking your wiring later won't have a problem.

»AT&T Southeast Forum FAQ »Telco Wiring Color Code.

I think you will have to splice an wire extension to the ground drain wire with a splice peanut and then "tie' the wire and splice to the cable to protect the fragile drain wire from flexure.


Gflash

@bellsouth.net
reply to ejg1
Why are there so many test plugs in the picture? You only have one line at your house-or are you at an apartment nid?

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA
I dont really know.

I have 6 jacks in the house and noticed they were all wired (tapped connection) in parallel to each other using the same twisted pair. Why I have 5 other test jacks that were installed is a wonder to me too.

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

 reply to d_l
Well… mission accomplished ! Everything operates as expected. Stick a fork in this. Here is what I did.

SETUP
The picture below shows the HR line fed directly from the nid into the garage. Remember I bought 250ft of CAT6E STP cable and I kept it all intact to validate everything was working right. After passing through 250ft of coiled cable, I terminated the other end with the RJ11 jack plate. It is hard to make out the jack plate in the photo because it is overexposed. From the jack into the Speedstream 4100 and then into the laptop.



BASELINE TEST:
1) Circuit breakers to the house turned off except for the garage breaker to power the modem and computer. This was done to eliminate all possible sources of RFI.

Speakeasy tests showed 5138/644 , 5139/643 and 5140/642. Modem synch details:


Downstream Current Rate (Reported): 6016
Downstream Maxrate (Estimated): 8540
Downstream Bit Margin (Calculated): 476

Upstream Current Rate (Reported): 768
Upstream Maxrate (Estimated): 1074
Upstream Bit Margin (Reported): 96

Bit tones with notches/missing bits:

bit(s) 38:41 163.875 - 181.125 KHz
bit(s) 125 539.0625 - 543.375 KHz
bit(s) 130 560.625 - 564.9375 KHz
bit(s) 141:142 608.0625 - 616.6875 KHz
bit(s) 154:162 664.125 - 702.9375 KHz
bit(s) 172 741.75 - 746.0625 KHz
bit(s) 186:191 802.125 - 828 KHz
bit(s) 196:201 845.25 - 871.125 KHz
bit(s) 211 909.9375 - 914.25 KHz
bit(s) 215:223 927.1875 - 966 KHz
bit(s) 234 1009.125 - 1013.4375 KHz
bit(s) 242:247 1043.625 - 1069.5 KHz
bit(s) 255 1099.6875 - 1104 KHz

FINAL TEST
2) Many tests were done in between this final test to make sure everything was stable. In summary, the HR line was rolled out to the final location and cut. Only about 20 feet of CAT6E was needed . The other 230 feet was laid to rest in the corner. The line was fed into the house, wired up at the outlet and everything buttoned up. I also want to mention everything in the house got turned on to create as much RFI as possible. Here are the test results:

Speakeasy tests showed 5138/646, 5138/649, and 5140/650. Modem sync details:


Downstream Current Rate (Reported): 6016
Downstream Maxrate (Estimated): 8508
Downstream Bit Margin (Calculated): 476

Upstream Current Rate (Reported): 768
Upstream Maxrate (Estimated): 1136
Upstream Bit Margin (Reported): 96

Bit tones with notches/missing bits:

bit(s) 38:42 163.875 - 185.4375 KHz
bit(s) 111:117 478.6875 - 508.875 KHz
bit(s) 130 560.625 - 564.9375 KHz
bit(s) 154:162 664.125 - 702.9375 KHz
bit(s) 172 741.75 - 746.0625 KHz
bit(s) 186:190 802.125 - 823.6875 KHz
bit(s) 198:201 853.875 - 871.125 KHz
bit(s) 211 909.9375 - 914.25 KHz
bit(s) 222:223 957.375 - 966 KHz
bit(s) 234 1009.125 - 1013.4375 KHz
bit(s) 241:248 1039.3125 - 1073.8125 KHz
bit(s) 255 1099.6875 - 1104 KHz

Thanks for the help of our esteemed poster D_L who was patient enough to get me through this.

G’Night and best wishes to everyone!


d_l
Barsoom
Premium,MVM
join:2002-12-08
Reno, NV
reply to ejg1
Was that final test with the shielding grounded or ungrounded?

What do you think is the source device(s) of all your previous interference? Any guesses?

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

It was a combination of RFI sources and I verified all of them.

In the center of the garage there are three items all within 3ft of each other and I did not want to put time into distinguishing whether just one or all were contributors. The transistor radio test confirmed the emissions. I believe the the phone cable routing passes fairly close to the items after exiting the nid. Next time I climb up there I will make it a point to look.

The Garage items were:
1) the garage door opener,
2) the garage butler (Device that closes the garage door after a set time in case you have forgot)
3) florescent lighting for the garage.

Then in the house there are two HUGE RFI emitter sources. I isolated them to be:

1) Panasonic DMR-E20 DVD recorder
2) My brand new Panasonic 54in Vieta Plasma TV.

I sat there for an hour plugging things in and out to figure out where the issues were.

The transistor radio link you provided earlier really helped. Hopefully others don't read that link and intermediately blow it off because it does sound kind of hokey. But then you soon learn it works pretty good !!! You just rotate the radio around like a globe and if there is no static you are good to go. If you get static, move around until it gets louder and it will lead you to the source.

ejg1

join:2004-12-01
Pacifica, CA

reply to d_l
said by d_l See Profile :

Was that final test with the shielding grounded or ungrounded?
I did not try to see if there was a difference by undoing the ground wire. I will do the test and post the results here. It should not take that long.


d_l
Barsoom
Premium,MVM
join:2002-12-08
Reno, NV

reply to ejg1
My money would be on the plasma TV as the worst culprit.

Yeah, prospecting for RFI with a portable AM radio is always fun. We have suggested it to quite a few people with problems and some have blown off the idea. Their loss.
-
Forums » US Telco Support » AT&T » AT&T West[Modem] What is my best bet in buying a new modem on my own? »
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