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coltsfoot2
@sbcglobal.net
| [help] ATT DSL--169 numbers...
I am new to this stuff and too old in age to digest extensive geek stuff.
BUT in short I subscribed to ATT DSL. (any choice ?)
I chose the 2wire modem. I later dropped the modem because I could not reach my basement(another computer)from upstairs.I know the modem has a variable power setting and ability to bypass the router)
With 2wire I'd be calling tech support about once a week because I could not connect to internet.
I decided to go with a Siemens 4100b modem which I got from ATT. (non-wireless) I got a Netgear G Plus router and could reach my basement OK.
I would have to go into Netgear Router about once a week (192.168.1.1) and just press buttons again to have access to internet.
Fine till now.--- but are all my computers going bad now ??
I can't connect and doing run---cmd-config it will show me trying to dial a 169.... number instead of the appropriate number.
I do a RESTORE TO EARLIER POINT ON COMPUTER and ability to connect to internet returns. I've tried 3 different computers.
I once talked to somebody at ATT TECH SUPPORT LEVEL 2 that gave instructions to bypass this problem. I ended up with some display on Desktop to click to connect. Anybody know what this is about ? (I did not keep/remember instructions)
Now I call ATT and it is almost a joke with these aliens. (I mean no offense..it's often a language problem)
Level 2 now only wants to sell you support.
I can't connect with multiple computers now..just hits that 169.----- number...The computer I am on now I got connect ability back by RESTORING TO YESTERDAY.
Something is insane.
I can't keep on doing RESTORES. If it's a computer problem multiple computers ? All I did with this computer since yesterday is surf the web and download some printer software,etc.
BIG QUESTION. Anybody else going insane over 'no connect' and just hitting a 169....number ?? (run-cmd-ipconfig)
A solution besides RESTORE ? What was that by-pass some tech gave me once ?? | |
DrStrange
Technically feasible
Premium
join:2001-07-23
West Hartford, CT
 ·Stephouse Networks
 ·magicjack.com
·EarthLink
| An IP address in the 169.254.xxx.xxx range means that your network adapters aren't getting private IPs [192.168.1.x or similar] from the router. It means DHCP isn't working for some reason.
If it's a wired connection, I'd look for loose or broken cables. If it's wireless, I look for misconfigured security settings [incorrect password, etc.] or hardware incompatibilities.
Educated guess:
Since it (1) worked fine for an extended period, (2) suddenly stopped working, and (3) a restore fixes it temporarily:
Was a software update [OS, antivirus, etc.] installed that breaks DHCP or wireless encryption [or causes incompatibility with other software/hardware]? Do all the affected computers have the same antivirus/anti-malware/privacy software? If you can identify what's happening to 'break' Internet connectivity, you can begin to fix the problem. | |
MrFixitSC
Premium,VIP,ExMod 2001-06
join:2000-12-01
Moncks Corner, SC
1 edit | reply to coltsfoot2
nonsensical response deleted  | |
Frohike
Premium
join:2000-07-23
Waxahachie, TX
| reply to coltsfoot2
If doing a restore fixes the issue on the PC(s), then you have a problem on the computer(s). It has nothing do with the internet connection. Hence the reason 2nd Tier support is offering Support Plus (fee based PC support).
We at 2nd Tier are NOT PC technicians and per Terms of Service are not required to fix your PC for free. The Terms of Service only allow us to make sure the internet is working. Once we determine your PC is causing the problem, we are released from having to find and fix your PC problem.
Again, if restoring the PC fixes the problem then its on your side. Just think about it - how would a PC restore fix the internet signal from us? (it wont).
To address your problem though - since its affecting all the PCs, sounds like they all share software in common thats getting an update? like Security software or even windows itself. Especially if it stops working few days after a restore.
Sounds like updates happen after the restore and break your connection again.
That bypass a tech gave you was a broadband connection - but requires you to bypass the router and connect directly to the modem. Instead of the router handling the broadband connection (pppoe), you remove the router from equation and have windows handle the connection instead. | |
coltsfoot2
@sbcglobal.net
| reply to MrFixitSC
That bypass a tech gave you was a broadband connection - but requires you to bypass the router and connect directly to the modem. Instead of the router handling the broadband connection (pppoe), you remove the router from equation and have windows handle the connection instead.
reply ??
How do you do that ??
No..all computers do not have identical software...
Yes. They all have Windows XP with Service Pack 3 but I guess ATT does not service anybody with Service Pack 3.
I have been connected ok the last few days but after a few hours the 'speed' goes to zilch or zero. Have to play around with re-boots, etc. for about an hour or so. No more 169-- numbers as of recent. ATT SPEED TEST will show about zero speed. | |
NormanS
Premium,MVM
join:2001-02-14
San Jose, CA
·Pacific Bell - SBC
| said by coltsfoot2 :
Yes. They all have Windows XP with Service Pack 3 but I guess ATT does not service anybody with Service Pack 3.
AT&T will service the DSL connection. Between the DSLAM and the DSL modem.
Windows XP; SP3 has nothing to do with it. If your Ethernet link between the modem and the computer is working, there is nothing for AT&T to fix. If it can be shown that there is a problem with the Ethernet port on the modem, and it is still under warranty, AT&T will replace the modem. Otherwise, you own the modem, so you get to replace it. If the problem is with the Ethernet cable, those are cheap enough. I can get them for $2 to $15, depending upon the length I need. If it is the adapter in the computer, you are on your own.
Also, since you opted for the SpeedStream 4100b, networking issues are on you (other than a bad Ethernet port on a modem under warranty).
Every IP address from 169.254.0.0 to 169.254.255.255 is part of the block reserved by IANA for "Link Local" IP addresses. If Windows can't get a DHCP lease on an IP address from a gateway device, it self-assigns a random IP address out of that range.
When you have a router, that router should have a DHCP server, and it should assign a reserved private IP address. Most common is the IANA reserved range from 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255. Netgear uses a default range from 192.168.1.0 to 192.168.1.255; with 192.168.1.1 for the router. Any computer getting an IP address from a Netgear router with a default LAN configuration should get an IP address between 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.254 (depending upon the actual limits on the DHCP server, the '1' and '254' may actually be different; '10' and '99' are common).
If the problem is common, it could be the router going bad. OTOH, networking issues are daunting for people who aren't familiar. You don't have to be a rocket scientist, or brain surgeon to understand networking, but rocket scientists and brain surgeons aren't expected to understand networking. And you probably should see if you can find a local friend, or relative, who does understand, and is willing to help.
--
Norman
~Oh Lord, why have you come
~To Konnyu, with the Lion and the Drum | |
Floid
join:2002-02-11
Ridgefield, CT
| reply to coltsfoot2
Wow, lots of old posts here, hopefully this has been resolved already, but let's see if I can add my $0.02:
As noted, when DHCP (think of this as "autoconfiguration") fails, Windows will happily pick something in the 169.x.x.x ("no configuration, but maybe it's two machines cabled together and you just want to use 'Network Neighborhood'") range and stop trying.
The question you need to solve is why DHCP is failing. It could be the router, it could be the quality of the wireless connections, or it could be a bizarre Windows issue.
The easiest to test would be the router: When all seems to be failing, plug a machine (a laptop is handy for this) into it, boot it, and see if it gets a DHCP lease and can visit web pages. If this works, it's probably not the router, while if it fails, it means the router probably does have bugs. (In my limited experience, 2Wire actually has some of the best software engineering in the 'home gateway' space... Linksys and Netgear products can 'vary widely' when it comes to software reliability.)
Checking the wireless for reliability is more complicated, but based on your problems with the 2Wire, it's worth suspecting. Again, it would help to have a nerd around to check for "packet loss" between the machines having issues and the router under the prevailing conditions (or over time); the question is whether the link is being "semi-reliable," perhaps enough that common internet traffic (which will retry) gets through, but not enough for DHCP to always work reliably. If this is the case, forcing the wireless down to a lower speed (~20mbps, still much faster than the DSL link you're trying to share) and ensuring a clear channel is selected will often help... or if you're trying to go from the top floor of a 2-floor house to a basement, the simplest thing is to just install a phone jack on the first floor and place your equipment centrally rather than to keep fiddling because you wish it would work!
Of course, if none of these components seem suspect, it's a mystery as to why Windows is getting so confused. You should be able to recover a connection without doing a whole 'restore,' though -- you just need to convince it to negotiate for DHCP again. The question is whether Windows' settings for those interfaces (the network cards, or wireless adapters) are getting 'blown out' such that it stops trying DHCP at all, or if they're properly configured for DHCP but not retrying. If they're configured for DHCP, just rebooting the computer should get it to ask for a new lease [someone correct me if I'm wrong about XP], or you can even ask it to 'renew' without rebooting - I stay away from Windows, so don't remember how XP does it off the top of my head, but a Google search for 'renew dhcp XP' should show you that it's almost a one-click process.
...
Well, one other silly suggestion, regarding the reliability of the wireless between the floors: Does this new Netgear box of yours have external antennas? Are they all pointed "up" now? If so, pointing one or both parallel to the floor may help quite a bit; the signal forms a "donut" around the sides of the antenna, so if they're all up you might have better coverage down the street than downstairs! If it's a newer device with three antennas, pointing one 'flat,' one 'flat' at 90 degrees to the first one, and leaving one standing will lead to the best coverage everywhere.
...
I'm also reminded of some awkward issues with Windows' power-saving features and certain wireless adapters (including those built into laptops)... In fact, especially if they're laptops, it may help to have a nerd in to look at that. (If they're laptops with Intel wireless, at least one series of Intel cards had a fix in a driver from Intel.) | |
coltsfoot2
@snet.net
| Since I made my last post all has been AOK.
It did seem that unusual time when you really needed to use the computer grrrr---- can't connect to the internet...
As said since I last posted 'no problems'. When I last posted I was having daily problems if I remember.
Yes. I tried other computers.
Usually going into the Netgear Router and clicking APPLY again would correct it.
Yes..I was having a chronic problem of computer trying to connect to a 169. number but not of recent. Same computer. Same location, etc. Same modem.
The 2wire I was having difficulty going from upstairs of house to basement. I got a Netgear 'enhanced G' (whatever that is) and I seem to connect with no problem from basement to upstairs. Yes..it has a flexible antenna...
If I put the 2wire in-between somewhere such as 1st Floor how can I deal with Tech Support in foreign lands ?? It's always 'how many lights are on'..reset the modem, etc. The modem not being available to look at or play with ?
It's kind of a pity the wireless frequency/power is set at 2.3 ghz with the power limit ? It would seem so useful with a little more power. Maybe not if your in an urban apartment but a rural residential house ? | |
Floid
join:2002-02-11
Ridgefield, CT
| Glad to hear it's working! I'm just going to stuff this with "useful factoids." Don't sweat them too much...
said by coltsfoot2 :Since I made my last post all has been AOK. It did seem that unusual time when you really needed to use the computer grrrr---- can't connect to the internet... As said since I last posted 'no problems'. When I last posted I was having daily problems if I remember. Yes. I tried other computers. Usually going into the Netgear Router and clicking APPLY again would correct it.
Hmm. That does give... well, only 60% odds on the router's DHCP software failing (and being restarted when the 'APPLY' button is clicked in the configuration). Perhaps there is a firmware update for the router? quote:
Yes..I was having a chronic problem of computer trying to connect to a 169. number but not of recent. Same computer. Same location, etc. Same modem.
Just some nerd clarification on this: Computers can be configured to use any "IP" (Internet Protocol) address possible, but the Internet (or your local, private network) only works when "everyone agrees" / everything is set properly. So what you were seeing is the computer picking an address for itself in the 169.254.x.x range, somewhat retroactively called the "ZeroConf" range based on what Microsoft did with it. It may also be looking for a gateway to the Internet somewhere within the 169.254.x.x range, although the original spec (before anyone coined the term 'ZeroConf') specifically didn't try. If I recall correctly, XP, even when configured for DHCP, picks one of these ZeroConf addresses while waiting to get a DHCP response (the individual computers initiate the DHCP transaction by shouting "I need an address!")... The moral of the story is really that, if this starts happening again, you want to borrow a nerd and ask him/her to "sniff packets" (monitor the network) to see how the whole DHCP situation is breaking. If "APPLY"ing in the router fixes it, there's a good chance it's the software in the router, but starting from the downstairs and finding out what that computer is really seeing and doing would give the best understanding of the problem. quote:
The 2wire I was having difficulty going from upstairs of house to basement. I got a Netgear 'enhanced G' (whatever that is) and I seem to connect with no problem from basement to upstairs. Yes..it has a flexible antenna...
If I put the 2wire in-between somewhere such as 1st Floor how can I deal with Tech Support in foreign lands ?? It's always 'how many lights are on'..reset the modem, etc. The modem not being available to look at or play with ?
You have a point! As a techie, I'm comfortable dragging out a laptop, or running around with a cordless phone, if I'm preparing to spend hours convincing AT&T that they have a problem. Of course, with a 2Wire, when the LAN is working, you can get the same information out of its web configuration interface without looking at the lights. That could be less convenient for you. There are really only a couple failure modes for DSL, though: * It's not dead: There's no sync, the 'DSL' light on the modem is out. You watch the light on the modem and don't need to walk back to a computer until it's green. * It's slow: You watch the light on the modem, see that it's green, call AT&T to do a line test, and when they report back you try it from the computer. If it's still slow it's either your computer/LAN or the modem is half-fried, which you won't believe until they come out and test with their line equipment in person anyway. [This happened to me a while back!] * The lights are all green but nobody's home (can't reach the Internet): Either they're doing scheduled maintenance, or it's your computer/LAN/router and they can't help anyway. quote:
It's kind of a pity the wireless frequency/power is set at 2.3 ghz with the power limit ? It would seem so useful with a little more power. Maybe not if your in an urban apartment but a rural residential house ?
2.4GHz is the frequency (just like your FM radio tunes from 88 to 108MHz, the common WiFi band is up in "microwave" spectrum, chopped into about a dozen overlapping channels from 2402–2483.5MHz); the power is indeed measured in milliwatts or thousandths of a watt. This is really an appropriate chunk of spectrum for high-speed, "line-of-sight" links, but it is annoying that it's shared with certain cheap cordless phones and microwave ovens. (That's why you don't want it to be much higher-powered -- at low power it's just more "ripples in the aether," but at high power you could get burned!)
That said, believe it or not, you can easily cover a whole house from one access point with a little care and attention. Central placement is the one big trick; another would be to make sure the equipment on the remote computers is "MIMO," which will often dramatically enhance reception, especially indoors. (All "N" equipment is MIMO.)
If it's an actual mansion, the appropriate thing to do is to use multiple access points (all running at standard power levels) to relay the signals, but this does involve understanding the Wireless Distribution System spec, which isn't supported in all cheap home "routers." Netgear does support it in certain models, so if signal strength is a serious problem, you could see if it's worth putting another AP on the first floor. (Given the first part of this paragraph, you'd really need a nerd to help with that; if the wireless cards in the existing computers are old it's usually easier to see if upgrading them to MIMO or "N" models works first.)
Cheers, and good luck with it! | |
coltsfoot2
@snet.net
| reply to coltsfoot2
I don't wish to keep this thread going forever.
Last night I was having problems with connection speed. All night 10kbps..or 30,etc.
When I shut down and re-connect it seems to help the speed at times. Reason for this ?? (using that ATT SPEED TEST WEB TOOL)
I just turned on computer now and it's 1.258 mbps download and 330.30 kbps upload.
As to my comments about wireless and 2.3ghz it just seems regs should allow a little more uuuumph.(government regulations?)
I also presume the wireless is only as good as both points of contact. Inotherwords the router is a receiver/transmitter and the other computer has an USB gadget or a card installed in the computer which is also a receiver/transmitter. Wireless N router and normal G card in remote computer?
To expand on that is a card better than USB gadget ?? Seems a card has all kinds of circuitry on it but the USB device ? Does the USB device get enough power from a 1.1 USB port ?
I am temporary at this location. My parents house. They are over age 90 and I do about everything around here. (caretaker?) I live in upstairs of house and spend time with mostly laptop computers up there. Sit on a bed and use them. I connect to 'my' phone line by just running a line out the window to phone box on house.(and the modem upstairs) (3 seperate phone lines here/phone numbers)
I guess I could use another line but only for old dial-up.
(not my ATT account #)
In the basement of the house I have numerous Desktop computers I fiddle with.
The basement is like a junk yard but more suitable for playing with Desktops.
I go down there and my wireless connection depends on contact with the modem upstairs. At least with the 2wire I seemed to have some difficulty.
A question.
If I did not even use wireless but the Ethernet wired connection could it be used in 2 locations ? I don't mean wired from upstairs to basement.(a nightmare) I have my phone line going upstairs but I can easily run a line from phone box into basement. NOT KNOWING MY MINUTE TO MINUTE plans I can't keep running to put the modem upstairs or in basement.
In short if I had 2 modems..one in basement and one upstairs connected to same phone line could such be used without any problems ?? I guess I mean ONE modem turned on at a time. One on and other off.
Sorry for such simple questions but one 'has to learn'... | |
NormanS
Premium,MVM
join:2001-02-14
San Jose, CA
·Pacific Bell - SBC
| Two modems? I'd suggest unplugging the "off" modem, when not in use, to avoid electric reflections on the line.
OTOH, I did wire a network on a premises, which required pulling wire from the crawl space below the first story, and the attic above the second story. If you plan it out first, then do all the work in one swoop, it should be feasible. And, if the premises is that old, it might need some electric upgrades as well. While we didn't do the electric at the same time as I pulled the CAT 5e, it would have been a good time to do it all.
--
Norman
~Oh Lord, why have you come
~To Konnyu, with the Lion and the Drum | |
Floid
join:2002-02-11
Ridgefield, CT
| reply to coltsfoot2
Noticed an interesting product today, but seeing what's been going on in my absence: For the money, perhaps you just want to get a pair of powerline network adapters and be done with it? They're just bridges (plug one into the router, plug another to a hub in the basement to serve all your machines) and you can probably find a pair for less than $40.
A similar form of phoneline networking used to exist but it's pretty much unobtainium right now.
...
Anyhow, the "interesting product" is this thing: »www.hawkingtech.com/products/pro···odID=394
...this appears to be a sort of repeater that does not rely on WDS or anything fiddly. So that could be plonked on the first floor without disrupting anything else.
...
As to USB wireless adapters vs. PCI cards -- I have not looked in a while, but the PCI cards often have slightly higher power and marginally better antennas (along with the option to replace them with yet-better antennas).
Since you already have the USB dongles, and since a better antenna with "low" power is equivalent to (or sometimes better than) high power into a poor antenna, you might want to play with something like »www.freeantennas.com/projects/Ez-10/ before you go nuts replacing hardware; just place the USB dongle in the same position as the antenna there and aim it "up."
Then there's the "fryer scoop dish" option, too! »www.usbwifi.orconhosting.net.nz/ | |
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