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1999 Trans Am, No dash cluster gauge lights. »
« [Tech] Contact ignition vs electronic.  
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Maccawolf
Premium
join:2001-02-20
Hillsdale, NJ

reply to fixrman
Re: EPC error

OK, first of all, I didn't buy it new (nor have I EVER had a NEW car), so I have no idea of this warranty booklet of which you speak. (belive me, If I ever received it, I would read it...)

How much more info can I give? I have no more info. it's not POOR PERFORMANCE, it was NO performance. (although it is running fine (so it seems ) NOW). The CEL even went off again...

I have bought a can of fuel filter cleaner stuff, and it says to put it in the tank when it's almost empty, so I have to wait a few more days before I do that. (I use about 1/2 a tank a week, and am going to let it get to 1/4 so I can add this stuff.)

BTW, I believe they replaced the recalled brake switch in JAn when I brought the car in LAST TIME I had an oil change.
(at least they SAID they did...)
--

Mom and Crockett...... I miss you both!

fixrman

join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
·Verizon FIOS
·Vonage
·Verizon Online DSL

>> It SOUNDS/FEELS like it has something to do with the fuel line or fuel filter. >(originally wouldn't start, but a few hours later, it did, ?

Does that mean it didn't crank? Or does it mean it cranked and didn't run? When one turns the key, the engine should crank, which means the cranking motor(it isn't a "starter" at all, one of my pet peeves) is spinning the engine. If spark, air, fuel, compression are present, the engine will fire and run.

With electronic fuel controls, there can be many reasons for the engine to crank and not run. There are too many possibilities to diagnose with the information you gave, and as suddenly as your problem appeared, it could fail again with no warning.

Once again, a brake light switch failure should not cause the engine to not run. If, as you say, "they SAID" the switch was replaced (and I am assuming you are taking a weak shot at a dealer here) - "they" did. It would be illegal for the manufacturer's representative (the dealer) to submit for a part they did not replace, and it would be a violation of Federal law for the recall to not be performed.

Point of information: These "new-fangled" cars have been around for over twenty years now, in electronic system controls. I suggest you get more familiar with the current technology. If you didn't get an owner's manual, you should have demanded one. Search on eBay, craigslist or contact the manufacturer. You of all people certainly need one.


Maccawolf
Premium
join:2001-02-20
Hillsdale, NJ

EPC is the IDIOT LIGHT on the dash.

It felt/acted like exactly what I think a theft prevention shut off would do. (I don't have it). It turned over and started but died within two seconds as it didn't get any gas.

NEW FANGLED was a joke (sort of). Besides, my last car which was a 96, I CAN work on the engine. Hardly your 20 year scenario.

Don't need an owner's manual. I have a Haynes manual (that I ordered even before I picked up the car). too bad I didn't realize it would be useless as I am unable to access anything. I could have saved myself some money.

P. S. all are moot points now anyway as I have an appt. for 7:30 tomorrow morning to have VW take a look at it.
--

Mom and Crockett...... I miss you both!


jwersan
R.I.P. Mom, Brian, Ziggy, and RichK1957
Premium
join:2004-12-20
Port Jefferson Station, NY
clubs:
·Optimum Online

reply to Maccawolf
said by Maccawolf See Profile :

OK, first of all, I didn't buy it new (nor have I EVER had a NEW car)
There's your problem!

While new cars are NOT free from their own issues, the cost to own is much lower than MOST used cars, unless you get lucky.
Remember, it was sold/traded in for a reason, and you may have just discovered it!

Most new cars are covered "bumper to bumper" for three years or more, depending on maker.

If you are a weekend mechanic, then used cars may be "fun" to tinker with.

While the dealer will cost you more than the corner mechanic, they do know your car and generally have the parts on hand to fix it.

It may be worth the time and trouble to take it to them...
--
RIAA/MPAA... Bite me!!!!
In constant search for intelligent life on Earth!

fixrman

join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
·Verizon FIOS
·Vonage
·Verizon Online DSL

reply to Maccawolf
How do you know it didn't get any fuel? You don't. You just think that is what happened. Perhaps it lost spark. Thinking what a theft deterrent system would do doesn't get the car fixed. You have to know. Guesswork is expensive.

A 1996 vehicle was most likely OBDII, with electronic engine controls(computerized controls were installed on some cars back in the 70s, BTW). You couldn't fix that one either, not without a shotgun. Even so, a 1996 is still twelve years old.

You do need an owner's manual. It would tell you to take the car to VW when the EPC lamp is illuminated. The Haynes manual, as you indicated, is useless because you cannot access anything - so, as you said, you would have saved money by buying something you do need.

I work at a dealership, and I have a lot more in tools, test equipment and a technical library that you do not have at your disposal. There are things that I can't do on some vehicles, and other things that I choose not to do.

I'd suggest forgetting about servicing your own car, or trying to. Why?

Because if I had a dollar for every DIYer who made a problem worse by "fixing" it, or for every backyard shade tree "spert" who tried to fix something and made it worse, I'd have enough money to pay cash for the airplane I want.

If you want to hear some of the tales. make another thread and post to me. It'd be a hoot.


joako
Premium
join:2000-09-07
Gainesville, FL

@fixrman:

1)You can get a VAG-Com which will provide the same diagnostics as the VAS-5051 (except for GFF [proves most ofthe techs are idiots... they need a "fix the car wizard"!?] and firmware upgrades for control modules and now of course immobilizer stuff but there are ways to get the PIN or SKC and once you do you can do all the immobilizer functions with VAG-Com. Per Ross-Tech many dealers are actually using VAG-Coms!) Don't bother with generic OBD-II tools most I would do is get a free scan at AutoZone. There are many other tools that will do the same thing as VAG-Com but it seems to the the most popular and Ross-Tech provides excellent support and frequent updates.

2) Of course the Hayes is crap. Get the Bentley on CD-ROM it is the "Official Factory Repair Manual" and will provide you the same in-depth technical information the dealers and techs have *ACCESS* to only difference is chances are higher someone buying it to fix their car will actually *USE* it.

3) Brake light switch should not (AFAIK -- never heard that one) make the EPC light turn on

4) EPC = Electronic Power Control, aka "drive by wire" so I take it you don't have the 2.0l engine. Common issue seems to be the MAF (airflow meter) has gone bad esp. on the 1.8t engine. This is very common. Try this -- unplug the 4 pin connector. If you trace from airbox it will be right there inline with the rest of the tubing. This will cause the ECU to run in a closed loop meaning air-to-fuel ratio will be determined by a table in the ECU based on engine RPM, requested torque, etc, etc.

said by Maccawolf See Profile :

It felt/acted like exactly what I think a theft prevention shut off would do. (I don't have it). It turned over and started but died within two seconds as it didn't get any gas.

P. S. all are moot points now anyway as I have an appt. for 7:30 tomorrow morning to have VW take a look at it.
If its related to the immobilizer-II system in your car it will start as normal and then shut off within 5 seconds and there will be an amber light on the dash with the image of a car and a key. I forget now if it flashes, or not.

Please don't take it to the dealer. VW dealer seem to be one of the worst. Seems like anytime they have a decent tech they leave within a few years and start their own shops.
--
09:F9:11:02:9D:74:E3:5B:D8:41:56:C5:63:56:88:C0


Maccawolf
Premium
join:2001-02-20
Hillsdale, NJ

said by joako See Profile :

@fixrman:

Please don't take it to the dealer. VW dealer seem to be one of the worst.
NOW you tell me....LOL

Went yesterday and the EPC thingy only cost me $350, but then they deternined that I needed brakes AND rotors.
All told I spent $1K on the car yesterday.
--

Mom and Crockett...... I miss you both!


jwersan
R.I.P. Mom, Brian, Ziggy, and RichK1957
Premium
join:2004-12-20
Port Jefferson Station, NY
clubs:
·Optimum Online

said by Maccawolf See Profile :

said by joako See Profile :

@fixrman:

Please don't take it to the dealer. VW dealer seem to be one of the worst.
NOW you tell me....LOL

Went yesterday and the EPC thingy only cost me $350, but then they determined that I needed brakes AND rotors.
All told I spent $1K on the car yesterday.
$650 for brakes and rotors!?!?!?!
Next time bring it to my house and I will do the brakes & rotors, and I will throw in a free oil change for only $500!!
--
RIAA/MPAA... Bite me!!!!
In constant search for intelligent life on Earth!


Maccawolf
Premium
join:2001-02-20
Hillsdale, NJ

Oil change was included in the !k.

It was $425.98 for brakes and rotors $51.50 for oil change (next time I find a place for $19.95...LOL)

$384.78 for the EPC sensor and hose (including labor of course) and a $20.00 MISC. charge that I have already emailed questioning. I won't find out about that til Mon at least.

Grand Total $994.02

Thanks NY forum for the LOVELY day at Rye Playland that ended up costing me over a grand...LOL

fixrman

join:2003-02-10
Hatboro, PA
reply to joako
In case you didn't read my post, I have been in the automotive business for twenty four years, twenty of them as a full time technician.

I know what an EPC lamp is for, and I do know how to do diagnostics on CEC vehicles, but thanks.
Forums » Tech and Talk » Technical » Automotive1999 Trans Am, No dash cluster gauge lights. »
« [Tech] Contact ignition vs electronic.  


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