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<title>Electronics forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/electronics</link>
<description>Electronics forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Sat, 28 Nov 2009 18:54:46 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sat, 28 Nov 2009 18:54:46 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>Samsung LCD TV audio &#x26;amp; backlight work but no display</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23403561</link>
<description><![CDATA[My LN-S2651D lcd tv suddenly no display the next day.
I can hear the audio properly. But the display is a bit weird, i switching between sources and found that totally black with no backlight on the no signal sources, the backlight is slightly on when i switched to the sources that is on. Any advice. Thanks.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23403561</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-27 16:53:03</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>peltier cooling question</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23401825</link>
<description><![CDATA[I brought one of these coolit USB drink coolers for cheap way back when Compusa was closing it's stores.. it cools so-so..

however if I understood right a 5V would cool the same as one that took 200W?

The fan on this thing is so tiny I can't figure out what size it is..

So I was thinking about ways to try to get it cooler (not that it really cools your drink) would a faster air flow help?

the fan is a ARX DC brushless FD0530-S1042C 

5V 0.27A

*edit 

I can't seem to find any info on this fan

I could not think of another way so I stuck the heatsink in the airflow of a A/C I got 29.1F on the cold side and around 44F on the heatsink side..

I guess that's about as good as it gets yeah?
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!


]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23401825</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-27 07:45:25</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Simple tester checks Christmas-tree lights</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23403621</link>
<description><![CDATA[From EDN.

http://www.edn.com/article/CA46423.html?nid=4736&rid=4513541

Why is it that you always test 48 bulbs before you find the bad one in a 50-light string? The simple circuit in Figure 1 allows you to divide and conquer, greatly reducing the time it takes to find the bad bulb. The circuit uses a pair of NE2 neon bulbs with current-limiting resistors. You can use a pair of Radio Shack 272-1100 bulb-resistor sets. It's convenient to house the tester in a clear piece of plastic tubing, with the probe tip emerging from one end and a light-duty power cord emerging from the other end. You place the bulbs in the tube such that one is close to the probe tip and the other is near the power cord, so it's easy to remember which bulb lit last. The probe tip connects to common point between the neon bulbs. It consists of thin spring wire with all but the last &frac14; in. insulated. You use the bare tip to make contact with the crimp connectors in the base of the bulbs.

Wayne
--
If you cannot fix it with a buttset and some beanies you're not a technician.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23403621</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-27 17:09:49</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Question on U.S. electrical outlets</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23391063</link>
<description><![CDATA[I was thinking about this after someone was looking for a plug conversion from a prong to round plugs and had me thinking about how many other country's use this type of plug.

So the question is why was the flat plug used over the round one?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23391063</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-24 19:09:05</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Can anyone answer a power inverter question?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23391567</link>
<description><![CDATA[As most of you know, a portable power inverter can transform low DC car voltage at 12V to an AC receptacle's 120V for various household appliances. 

If I have an aerobed which draws 1.7 Amps at 120V, I can conclude that it is using 204 Watts of electricity (P=VI).   Would this mean that within the car's cigarette lighter's circuit that at least 17 Amps of current is flowing if the voltage is stepped up 10-fold at the inverter?  I wouldn't know how else to explain such high amperage fuses in most consumer inverters, then, if an appliance requires such a seemingly small amount of current while maxing out the rated inverter wattage.  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23391567</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-24 21:07:30</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Samsung 32&#x22; LCD 720p 60Hz, LN32B360</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23345490</link>
<description><![CDATA[Wasn't sure where to put this thread at..so sorry if in wrong section.

I'm looking for a cheaper HDTV to buy this coming up week, if I have enough $ on my paycheck..

Does anyone have any experience on this particular screen? I saw it at Walmarts website: http://www.walmart.com/Samsung-32-720p-LCD-HDTV/ip/10980684

I always heard Samsung makes excellent LCDs. Also, would 6ms response time be fast enough for gaming on xbox 360? I believe LCDs suffer from ghosting or something also? Is that related to the response time?
--
I am hotter than phone sex with a blind girl.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23345490</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-15 18:57:56</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>12v 3.3amp fan - How can I run it at 7v?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23349945</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a few Nidec Beta fans that run at 12v 3.3a and I would like to either use a pot on them or just use a resistor to get them down to 7v. If I use the resistor I don't mind to keep it at 7v, but if I use a pot I would like to have the ability to either shut them off completely, or turn them down to next to nothing since these fans output about 65db ...

Any pointers? I was looking at resistor calculators but I don't really know what it all means.
--
C&aelig;dite eos. Novit enim Dominus qui sunt eius.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23349945</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-16 16:37:22</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wonder how a laser printer works?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23344006</link>
<description><![CDATA[Here's the inside of the imaging unit of a HP2200 series laser printer.  The bearings for the rotating mirror died.

You can clearly see how the light is emitted from the center left board, is focused and reflected off of a rotating mirror, travels through some lenses, and then is reflected downwards onto a drum inside the toner cartridge.

The small mirror at the top center right reflects the light onto a sensor at the top center left.  That signals the end of the line and keeps everything in sync.

[att=1]

[att=2]

[att=3]]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23344006</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-15 11:17:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wireless Video Transmitter</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23380814</link>
<description><![CDATA[I posted this over in the Audio/Video forum... but I didn't get any responses. However, I didn't get any responses, then I realized that might not be the best place for a transmitter question.

Anyway....

Anybody have any good recommendations for a wireless video transmitter?

I'm looking to make my camcorder 'broadcast wireless' by using a transmitter connected to the audio/video ports on my camera, and transmitting the signal to a receiver in a window.

The receiver could connect to something like a EasyCap and stream the audio/video.

So... I was thinking of something like a cordless phone transmitter/receiver... Simple, but would get the job done.

Maybe a 900mhz transmitter would work best?

Anyway.. this is the only way that I think that I can make my camera truly 'wireless'...

Anyway...
Thanks!]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23380814</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-22 21:18:37</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Reversing a non-reversible AC motor?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375703</link>
<description><![CDATA[Ok so I purchased a motor (which I got for a very good price) but in haste I didn't check to make sure the motor had the correct rotation. This motor goes CW (shaft end) and I need it to go CCW (shaft end) since the fan blades I wish to attach to it are meant for CCW rotation.

Anyways, this motor is not electrically reversible, in other words one end of the start winding is permanently connected, so reversing the connections of the start winding is not possible.

I tried the old trick of swapping the end plates and rotor, but if you look at the picture above it will become obvious why this will not work (rotor and stator are off-center).

Is there any other trick I failed to think of here? I'm aware I could redo the internal connections, but I'd rather not.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23375703</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 16:13:31</pubDate>
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