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<title>Electronics forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/electronics</link>
<description>Electronics forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Sun, 23 Nov 2008 07:52:12 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sun, 23 Nov 2008 07:52:12 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>led project</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21394167</link>
<description><![CDATA[I will be doing a little project in a few week with a cree xr-e q5 led I wanted to replace back up bulbs in a car to them the info I have from cree is the driving voltage is 3.7v and at 1000mA it provides a output around 214-228lm giving they will be only used for going in reverse lifetime I don't feel would be an issue.

now question is how do I get a cars 12v output down to a safe output? and yes I do know some can put out 14v depending on engine speed so I want to play it safe.. having sAid that other light outputs are...

350mA 107-114 lm
700mA 171.2-182 lm
1000mA 214-228 lm
--
It's NOT Ni-kon It's NE-KON!


Check out my Gallery!
http://www.dslreports.com/pics/dimaging/400265

]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21394167</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-07 21:42:07</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Brightest leds</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21442437</link>
<description><![CDATA[I want to use  about 9 leds to form a v. This would be used on a car. What numbers do look for in getting the brightest leds?
--
Caddy]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21442437</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-17 18:25:59</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>What were they thinking when they designed this POS?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21460075</link>
<description><![CDATA[Mini HDMI connector (the smaller one):

  

Very bad design, the connectors are quite flimsy and easy to break, and don't always make a good connection if there is any stress on the cable whatsoever.

Over at NAIT they purchased a Sony HD camcorder that comes with this type of connector, to be mounted on a microscope. Since the camera is mounted vertically, there will always be some stress on the connector even with the cable zip-tied to the side of the camera. Always have to fiddle with the connector to get a signal.

Sometimes making something smaller doesn't make it better, this is a prime example. If you ever get a chance to look at one of these note how thin and fragile this connector is. I know the point is to save space on portable devices, but this is just ridiculous.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21460075</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-20 20:46:20</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>EL backlight question</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21467614</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a weather monitor that when you press the light/snooze bar it lights up the display for about 5 seconds.. the most annoying thing is it wont stay on and you can't see anything on the display at night without having to hit the button.

My guess is that the light is run off the batteries?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21467614</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-22 06:38:47</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>PELTIER</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21459672</link>
<description><![CDATA[please any great mind can tell me how to provide power source for peltier.i dont have any manual for that i had given that to 9volts and 1 amps it works fine but not upto the mark it may be around 23 and 10 degree so please any one tell me how to increase the cooling capacity??????????
after some time both side heated up so wat is the reason???
its dimension is 4*4cms so please any great mind help me to solve this problem...
thanks in advance.........
please reply to my mail
something4ubaby@gmail.com]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21459672</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-20 19:33:55</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wall Charger for Sandisk e270</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21463104</link>
<description><![CDATA[Will this Ipod Apple USB Wall Charger work with Sandisk e270 mp3 player?
http://www.shop4tech.com/user.htm?go=view_item&id=6608&r=183
I have data cable already.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21463104</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-21 12:14:38</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>thermistor question</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21410556</link>
<description><![CDATA[providing the temp is under for what the thermistor is rated for will it still pass a current along to a device like a fan?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21410556</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-11 12:59:20</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Wiring a power relay</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21453537</link>
<description><![CDATA[Folks,

I have a 24VAC circuit that I want to use as a control for a 110 VAC (line) device.  I'm planning to use a SPDT power relay for this, and use the 24V line for the coil.  I'm debating how to switch the line voltage side.

Should I switch the live or neutral?  

If this were a household switch, the choice is clear (in fact, mandated).  However, the relay will be in a shielded, non conductive box.  I'm more concerned about the possibility of line current somehow shorting over to the low voltage side (say over time and the relay fails in such a way that this happens), resulting in (1) line current on the control side, or (2) a fire.

If I switched the neutral, it should reduce this possibility.  

Remember, the relay is in a closed box, only wires coming out of it are low voltage (control) and line current.  There is a separate switch for isolating line current coming in to the whole system.  

Comments?
tmh]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21453537</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-19 18:29:40</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>POE test circuit suggestions</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21410624</link>
<description><![CDATA[I need to test a POE (Power Over Ethernet) device that outputs 48VDC (42-55V). 

I need a simple circuit to turn on a 40 Ohm load when the POE power is present, but there are a few catches...

When "Off" the resistance must be between 13K and 30K 

Must turn on the 40 Ohm load with in 300mS of power applied

When power is removed it must reset to between 13K and 30K

Must run from POE 48V no external power supply for logic or control]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21410624</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-11 13:15:29</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>TV problem</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21423446</link>
<description><![CDATA[My TV is probably 10yrs old and has no S-Video. I bought it new. Recently the TV has been acting, image doesn't show up immediately when i switch on. It takes a good 3 minutes to show up. Then a minute or so to steady the image. After that it is very normal.

I am assuming it is a capacitor issue. I am speculating. I haven't opened the TV yet.

Does anybody think it is a different problem? if it is capacitor issue, i am willing to open and solder it myself. If it is going to be expensive(>$150), then i am going to junk it.

all help is appreciated.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,21423446</guid>
<pubDate>2008-11-13 16:50:58</pubDate>
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