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<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/auto</link>
<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Fri, 27 Nov 2009 00:15:55 EDT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Walmart tires vs the others</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373688</link>
<description><![CDATA[Recently I bought some Walmart tired called GoodYear Eagle Authority. The sales person says they're basically Eagle GT's, but 50 bucks cheaper that have been re-named for Walmart. Now I know Walmart buys their tires in bulk, and because of that they can sell them cheaper than other places. What confuses me is why would tire companies re-name their tires Specifically for Walmart? I'm assuming the quality is on par with their name brands you find in all the auto stores, right?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373688</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-20 23:54:39</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Why not just turn off the ignition?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23393584</link>
<description><![CDATA[ Fom another thread which I did not want to hijack:

 quote:A family member in the runaway Lexus made a frantic 911 call moments before the crash, telling emergency responders that the accelerator was stuck and the driver couldn't stop the car. The call ended as someone was overheard urging others to hold on and pray, followed by a woman's scream.


  Why not just turn off the ignition?  On all the cars/trucks I've owned that have locking steering columns (I'm an old-timer, so I've owned some that didn't have locking columns), you can turn the key back one notch which will kill the ignition without locking the steering.  

  Or just slip the trans into neutral/depress the clutch.  Sure, you may blow up the engine if it doesn't have a rev limiter, and maybe even if it does.  But that's still better than killing four people, no?

Comments?    ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23393584</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-25 10:15:50</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Upgrade from Alpine CDA-7892 what hardware will change?</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23396817</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have the Alpine CDA-7892.
If I wanted to upgrade to another alpine model (mainly to obtain an input jack) would only the face plate part need to be changed or would the entire innards need to be changed as well?

EDIT:
Even this one will be adequate http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=CDE-102

--
/chown -R us:us /yourbase]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23396817</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-25 20:56:42</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>High pitched whine when accelerating</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369732</link>
<description><![CDATA[I have a '98 Nissan Maxima SE.  The car seems to drive just fine, but over the last week or so, I've noticed that when I accelerate, I can hear a fairly faint high-pitched whine coming from somewhere towards the front of the car.  The pitch increases in frequency the longer I accelerate.  Once I get to a particular speed and maintain that speed, the whine goes away.

I've tried turning off the climate control, but that didn't make a difference.

Any ideas what may be causing the noise?  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23369732</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-20 10:34:12</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Weird Loud Front-End Noise When I Speed-Up In My Minivan</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23385794</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, I have another mysterious problem for you guys to help me guess what it is. 

I have a Chevy Venture minivan and when I speed-up in the freeway there's this noise akin to a spacecraft taking off (industrial humming) that is so loud it drowns out conversations and the radio inside the cabin.  The noise seems to come from under the engine and the faster I go the louder it gets.  The van does not vibrate nor is there play in the steering wheel, to be more exact the noise souns exactly like a 4x4 with off-road tires going at 65 mph in the freeway, the noise the threads would make on the pavement.

I got a hint that it might be the "bearings" by Googling it, what do you guys think?  They also mention a thing called the "cv joint".  Thanks in advance.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23385794</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-23 20:26:57</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Chevy Venture Minivan head gasket(s?)</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373940</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi,

Earlier this week the head gasket(s?) went in our minivan - because it was kept in operation when the temperature went into the red - numerous times, due to air in the cooling system after it was improperly bled. .

The oil and coolant mixed in the oilpan, which is a big problem. I need this to last another 3 months without spending a ton of cash or replacing the motor...

Jump to the end if you want to skip all the info / history stuffs.

My thoughts:
 I've replaced head gaskets before, but the materials cost alone to do this one will bring the bill over $300 in parts. I can get a  engine for 500 with less km's and slap it in there, and I will when its warm again and I can do it my self.

My problem is I can't do this now and I need this thing to run for another 3-4 months... Right now the oil and coolant mixed in the oilpan, and made a big mess. I've cleaned that up by flushing the engine, and verified compression is OK in the cylinders. So the obvious problem is coolant is going to leak back into the oil pan... I've backed the rad cap off and re-bled the system. Changed the oil and filter. 

**
Here's where I need some advice. I know the two are going to mix when it warms up. Coolant and oil don't mix and make a mess resembling white sour milk chunks and froth among other things. The oil level will rise in the motor and potentially blow a seal - thats fine, I can monitor and adjust the level, but I can't compensate for the coolant rusting the crank bearings and what ever else goes with that. I need something else to use as coolant, that at least if mixed with oil isn't detremental immediately [ over time is fine, only 3-4 months is the goal].

Some recommendations best to worse?
- *automatic transmission fluid
- alcohol only 
- power steering fluid
- diesel fuel was someone's recommendation?
- no coolant at all - air cooled

In any event they do not conduct heat and will obviously not work in the hot weather, but its cold right now, and alcohol or ATF mix into the engine oil its not going to make a mess, and I can just drain that and dump it back into the coolant resivoir, and keep on motoring... for now.

The question I really want to know the answer to is: would using atf be a potential fire hazard? That is really the only one of the above I would consider, as I know it gets very hot inside the transmission as well, and even though it doesn't have the thermal dissapation it would do a minimal job and let me drive?

Thanks for advice and thoughts.

John]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23373940</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 01:29:29</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Found a 99&#x27; Taurus but...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23387242</link>
<description><![CDATA[Okay, im in desperate need of a car.. we have one but i need another due to conflicts with the jobs..

Soooo cruising down the lots i found a 99' Taurus and all it had was two massive dents.. on the passenger side.. like it got railed by a beet truck but not HARD.. sooo anyways i asked how much and he said its going to be $500 for Black Friday specials.. he said all thats wrong with it is that the airbag light stays on.. the tires are literally brand new.. interior is literally brand new.. and they have like 100 cars in thier lot..

the guy has 5 other local car shops around town and this 1 out of the 5 has the only "black Friday deals" what could possibly be wrong with this vehicle.. im going to look at it in the day light on Wednesday i might just purchase it.. MIGHT.. he has other deals that range from 1500-300 obviously questioned the $300 cars and he said one needs an engine and the other doesnt want to start... 

Any ideas?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23387242</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-24 02:51:17</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Unintended Acceleration statistics</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23393470</link>
<description><![CDATA[Today, Toyota got nailed with a large recall due to unintended acceleration. While the floor mat and gas pedal is the culprit (I'm not sure if I believe that one), I wonder if there are statistics that show the incidences of unintended acceleration across other car brands.
Does anyone know if there is a listing?

  quote:Toyota to Replace 3.8M Gas Pedals After Crashes
Wednesday, November 25, 2009 

WASHINGTON &#151;  Toyota Motor Corp. will replace gas pedals on 3.8 million recalled vehicles in the United States to address problems with sudden acceleration or the pedal becoming stuck in the floor mat, The Associated Press has learned.

As a temporary step, Toyota will have dealers shorten the length of the gas pedals beginning in January while the company develops replacement pedals for their vehicles, the department said in a statement provided to the AP. New pedals will be available beginning in April, and some vehicles will have brake override systems installed as a precaution.

Toyota, the world's largest automaker, was expected to provide more details Wednesday on the fix. The Japanese automaker announced the massive recall in late September and told owners to remove the driver's side floor mats to prevent the gas pedal from potentially becoming jammed.

Popular vehicles such as the Toyota Camry, the top-selling passenger car in America, and the Toyota Prius, the best-selling gas-electric hybrid, are part of the recall. It includes the 2007-10 model year Camry, 2005-10 Toyota Avalon, 2004-09 Prius, 2005-10 Toyota Tacoma, 2007-10 Toyota Tundra, 2007-10 Lexus ES350 and 2006-10 Lexus IS250/350.

On Tuesday, Toyota announced a recall of 110,000 Tundra trucks from the 2000-03 model years to address excessive rust on the vehicle's frame.

The recall involving the accelerators was Toyota's largest in the U.S. It was prompted by a high-speed crash in August involving a 2009 Lexus ES350 that killed a California Highway Patrol officer and three members of his family near San Diego. The Lexus hit speeds exceeding 120 mph, struck a sport utility vehicle, launched off an embankment, rolled several times and burst into flames.

A family member in the runaway Lexus made a frantic 911 call moments before the crash, telling emergency responders that the accelerator was stuck and the driver couldn't stop the car. The call ended as someone was overheard urging others to hold on and pray, followed by a woman's scream.

In Japan, Toyota President Akio Toyota called the fatal crash "extremely regrettable" and offered his "deepest condolences" to the California family.

Investigators with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration determined that a rubber all-weather floor mat found in the wreckage was slightly longer than the mat that belonged in the vehicle, and could have snared or covered the accelerator pedal.

The government has attributed at least five deaths and two injuries to floor mat-related unintended acceleration in the Toyota vehicles and has received reports of more than 100 incidents in which the accelerator may have become stuck. A Massachusetts-based safety consultant who has investigated the Toyota cases, however, has found more than 2,000 incidents involving 16 deaths and 243 injuries potentially tied to the Toyota gas pedals.

To fix the problem, Transportation officials said dealers will shorten the length of the accelerator pedal on the recalled vehicles and in some cases remove foam from beneath the carpeting near the pedal. They said owners of the ES350, Camry and Avalon would be the first to receive notification because the vehicles are believed to have the highest risk for pedal entrapment.

Toyota plans to install a brake override system on the Camry, Avalon and Lexus ES350, IS350 and IS250 models as an "extra measure of confidence," NHTSA said. The brake override system, commonly called a "smart brake," will ensure the vehicle will stop if both the brake and the accelerator pedals are applied simultaneously.

Dealers will be instructed on how to modify the pedals before the end of the year and will begin shortening the accelerators in 2010. New replacement pedals are expected to be available for some models beginning in April and will be provided even if the vehicles have already received a modified pedal under the recall.

The automaker and government regulators have been discussing a potential fix for several weeks. In late September, Toyota announced the recall and told owners to remove driver's side floor mats and not replace them until the company had determined a remedy for the problem. The automaker said unhooked floor mats or replacement mats stacked on top of the originals could lead to stuck accelerators.

In early November, Toyota issued a statement saying NHTSA had confirmed "that no defect exists in vehicles in which the driver's floor mat is compatible with the vehicle and properly secured." But in a rare rebuke, NHTSA accused Toyota of releasing misleading information about the recall, saying removing the mats did not "correct the underlying defect." Toyota said it was not the company's intention to mislead anyone.

For more information, owners can contact Toyota at 800-331-4331 or the NHTSA hot line at 888-327-4236.

FoxNews.com]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23393470</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-25 09:52:36</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Tech] 2006 Kia Sedona electrical gremlins or coincidences...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23377450</link>
<description><![CDATA[2006 Sedona 
almost 50,000 miles.  

(This is kind of long, I apoligize.)

~4 months ago, the driver-side front blinker stopped working. I replaced the bulb and all was well.  Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, the blinker is now intermittently working.  If I give the glass or hood above the blinker a tap, the blinker works fine.  A bump in the road will make it stop working sometimes.
 
About a week ago, I started the van up - the Check Engine light & EST light stayed lit on the dash. I had to pick up my daughter so figured I would get it checked out ASAP, I pulled out of the driveway and realized the van had almost no acceleration power. Whether I put the pedal down a little bit or all the way to the floor, the van moved forward but with very little power.  

I backed into the driveway, turned the vehicle off and back on. The ESC light went away and the van drove fine (and has since). The Check Engine light went off after about 5 or 6 trips. (I am guessing it goes out after 'awhile' once the original problem code disappears.)  

I had some time today to look around google and I am seeing some references to Kia powder-coating ground connections causing the exact issue I had with the ESC light and no acceleration power.  I cannot find a direct reference or correlation to the blinker issue. Maybe a coincidence.

Tonight I realized the headlight on the driver side is also dead. (the same side the blinker intermittently works on).

I am hoping to tear into the headlight & blinker issue a little tomorrow and see if I can determine whether moving the blinker cable around makes a difference.  

Perhaps its all a coincidence, but bad grounds can cause crazy stuff.

Not really looking for help at this point, it is under warranty, so if it is some wiring issue I am letting Kia handle it.  

But - Anyone heard of or seen this? Especially about Kia not grounding things correctly, or using powdercoated connections which cause a bad ground? 

Can blinker lights be 'bad' in the sense vibration, bumps or 'tapping' could make them work and not work?  The filament on the blinker is fully intact, as I can see through the lens. 

On a sidenote, we have owned the Sedona for almost a year and have been very happy with it, overall. :)
--
Yes. the cat in my avatar is indeed mine.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,23377450</guid>
<pubDate>2009-11-21 23:40:13</pubDate>
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