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<title>Automotive forum - dslreports.com community</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/auto</link>
<description>Automotive forum current topics</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2007, dslreports.com</copyright>
<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:02:14 EDT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 15:02:14 EDT</lastBuildDate>

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<item>
<title>OEM Hubcaps</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28309195</link>
<description><![CDATA[The good news is the Dodge Stratus is back on the road. Some of the hubcaps are mismatched aftermarket so I would like to get some OEM hubcaps for the stratus that have the Dodge logo on them to compliment the new Michelin tires on it. 

I am wondering if these are obtainable at a dealership and how much would I be looking at in terms of cost. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28309195</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-21 12:44:44</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>idle probem toyota corolla d4d</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28307238</link>
<description><![CDATA[hi guys
     I have a Toyota corolla d4d 2002.The car has a problem starting. taking really long time to start . some time it take 15mins just to get that car started. when it finally starts, it drives normally when my foot remains on gas pedal. Each time i release my foot from the gas pedal,the car goes off. this car has a problem starting and cannot stay on idling without my leg on gas pedal. Also there is a triangle light warning around the temperature gauge. I
i have the injectors, batteries, alternator, and they working properly.
Can any one help me with what is wrong with this car?]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28307238</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-20 17:12:11</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Freaking PANIC ATTACK, lifter tap after oil change.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28291297</link>
<description><![CDATA[I was pressed for time and took my like new 2003 Mazda Tribute to Pep-Boys for an oil change. My ride has 121K on is.

This motor have never made a singe sound that was abnormal.

NOW IT SOUNDS LIKE SHIT.

There is a definite lifter tap that was not there before. EVER. I checked the oil and its spot on. Im about to go ape shit. I see they put in "shell 5w-20"

The motor sound like absolute shit now. I even watched the guy do the oil change. WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS!?!?! Its a Ford Duratech V6 that has never made a sound in its life. I want this oil out of the truck TOMORROW. I looked at the dip stick and it looks like vegetable oil.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28291297</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-14 21:24:33</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>lost key, need to move van</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28298986</link>
<description><![CDATA[Is there something about drilling out a car lock cylinder that is different than a regular door lock cylinder? All these sites imply drilling door cylinders is easy, as long as you drill in the right place and have some lubricant. I found one post on this site that spoke of only one pin in their car lock cylinder, whereas a regular door cylinder has 5 or 6. I need to be able to turn the cylinder in an 85 chevy van, so I can get the automatic transmission into reverse and get the van out of the place it's in. There is no key and it is not the original cylinder. Right now it's in the lock position. I can start the engine by bypassing the ignition switch with another one and jumping the starter solenoid wire to 12V. But the shift lever is locked. So I'm thinking of drilling the cylinder. I don't care if I destroy much, as long as I can drive it a bit into the street. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28298986</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-17 09:56:33</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>2000 Dodge Grand Caravan ES Speedo/Tach not Working</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28301289</link>
<description><![CDATA[Have searched the Internet high and low and come across several references to the connector on the instrument cluster being notorious for faulty/broken solder connections.  I disassembled the dash, removed the cluster, re-soldered the pins on the main connector, and reinstalled.

Still no tach or speedometer.   

If I hold down the trip/reset button and turn the key on the dash does go through diag mode, all lights come on, and the needles for the tach and speedo move.

Is there a sending unit somewhere that the instrument cluster may not be getting signal from?  How would I check to see if the instrument cluster is getting the info in the first place?

Other ideas or suggestions?

This particular caravan has the autostick (4 spd) feature on the transmission, so the instrument cluster is harder to come by.  I did find one available on Ebay for $75, but I'd hate to throw $75 at it for diagnostic purposes.

Help!]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28301289</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-17 21:54:19</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Window chips and rain damage..</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28303563</link>
<description><![CDATA[I took delivery of a CPO E63 on Thursday.

Upon inspection everything looked fine.. In my paper work there was a work order for 'windshield repair'. All seemed good.

This afternoon I treated the windshield with rain-x ( huge fan ) and during buffing a chip in the windshield became obvious.. Seems whatever is in rain-x  desolved the filler used.

Anyone seen this ? I'll contact the dealer, but since I've driven it, it's likely my problem..

It's not a huge ding, but now that I see it, it's glaring, and needs to get fixed.

-G
--
It's a fact : Chicks dig Mafia players.
'Wanna help buy a goat?' - http://www.kiva.org
]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28303563</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-18 23:01:21</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Matco &#x26;amp;quot;Quickcode&#x26;amp;quot; MD9000A OBDII scanner</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28302505</link>
<description><![CDATA[This is apparently made by SPX. Does anyone know what SPX model it is equivalent to? I can call Matco and SPX on Monday, but they perhaps may not want to tell me.

Once I have an SPX model number, I can check to see if there is any updated firmware available for it. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28302505</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-18 13:48:59</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Ford sued over defects in 3.5 L Ecoboost engine</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28294741</link>
<description><![CDATA[http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2013/05/ford-sued-over-allegedly-defective-ecoboost-engines.html

The lawsuit, which cites a couple that owns a 2010 Ford Taurus SHO and a man who owns an EcoBoost-powered F-150, says the engines can shudder, shake and then quickly lose power under acceleration. The plaintiffs in the say this has happened with their vehicles on multiple occasions.

Additional:
http://www.bohrernationallawfirm.com/Consumer-Class-Action-Claims/Ford-F150-Claims/
--
The talented hawk speaks French.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28294741</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-15 21:09:07</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Fuel injector cleaner..yes or no</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28302302</link>
<description><![CDATA[So since I have been driving (17 years) I have put stp fuel injector cleaner (black bottle) in my gas tank just about every oil change (3-5k miles). I have never thought about it but am I wasting my money? Does I really work?  Is there something better.  

Tia. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28302302</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-18 11:56:34</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] dodge neon that won&#x27;t start</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28297685</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hio I have 2004 dodge neon that unless you move the shifter from park to drive and back to park it will not start. We have changed starter 2. Please help.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28297685</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-16 19:46:54</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Vehicle Routine Maintenance Intervals</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28282002</link>
<description><![CDATA[I'm compiling a list of typical routine maintenance intervals for myself and my vehicles, and I've done some pretty extensive searching of what is considered "normal maintenance".  I realize there is no one-size-fits-all for everyone, but I do think some rule of thumb schedules can be made for typical drivers (someone who goes 10K-12K miles per year, with some local driving and some highway driving).

Here are my findings & thoughts:

Oil and filter: Once a year with Amsoil SS (or Mobil 1 Extended Performance) and long duration filter.

Air filter: once a year.

Fuel filter: once every other year.

Spark plugs: once every other year.

Transmission fluid and filter: ??? Amsoil ATF is good for 100K miles normal, 50K miles severe.  Rather than time, should this be a miles based change?

Differential fluid: ???  This was all over the board, some say to leave it alone, many say to change it every X miles... not sure what to think on this one.

Brake fluid: flushed and bled every other year.

Power steering fluid: never as long as working fine (again, differing opinions)!?!?

Coolant flush: 5-7 years depending on spec'd life of fluid.

Grease & lube: Given that many modern cars are coming with no grease fittings... is this even necessary anymore?!?!

Any other maintenance items I left off the list?  Or feedback about the time schedules I posted?  Anything look way off?  Thanks in advance! :)]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28282002</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-11 15:13:12</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] 1998 Ford Exploder Problem</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28289985</link>
<description><![CDATA[Wife recently brought to my attention that our lovely 98' Exploder is making a noise.... so i took it out (since i dont drive it) and when i accelerated and hit 30mph it jumped from 2k rmp's to 3rpm's after i got passed 30mph if went back down to 2k rpm's? has about 145k miles on it.

Could it be my transmission? or fluid maybe? im very illiterate when it comes to vehicles so bare with me here. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28289985</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-14 14:33:18</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Stratus won&#x27;t start (even with jumper pack)</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28289239</link>
<description><![CDATA[I finally have the money to get the car fixed. Problem is that it sat out all winter while I got around on the bus. 

I used my DieHard jumper pack to try to jump start it. When I hook up the jumper pack and turn the key, I hear a fast "clicking" sound but it won't turn over. Battery is difficult to access as you have to jack it up and remove the driver's side front wheel. Otherwise I would remove the battery and warranty it out at sears. 

Driving the car is iffy as the inspection sticker is expired and I am going to take it to get inspected to see what it needs to pass state inspection. It will be rejected as it needs a complete exhaust system to pass. They get you on other things like ball joints and tie rod ends. 

I wish I was still in Iowa, they don't inspect cars there. But they can stop you for a loud exhaust (which I do have). 
--
I've experienced ImOn (when they were McLeod USA), Mediacom, Comcast, and Time Warner and I currently have DirecTV. They are much better than broadcast TV.

I have not and will not cut the cord.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28289239</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-14 10:53:27</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] 2005 Kia Sedona V6 problems not idling!</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28281328</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hi, My problem is that my Kia Sedona doesn't want to idle at all. I have to keep one foot on the gas to make sure it idles at stop sign or anywhere. I brought the van to the dealership for diagnostic and another thing is the engine light never came on also, so no code was showing up and after 3 days and $600.00 later still at the shop, they still don't know how to fix this problem. Now they told me the van doesn't even want to start anymore as it did before entering their shop and the motor only turns...They did 3 different diagnostic with nothing. They're confused and I'm confused and frustrated right now! Any kind of help or anyone encounter this problem would be appreciated to hear how you resolved this. Thank you for the help.

Ron.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28281328</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-11 09:23:03</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Battery charger voltage</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28262699</link>
<description><![CDATA[What should be the charger output voltage?
--
Caddy]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28262699</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-04 21:35:16</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Recall for some Chrysler products</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28285014</link>
<description><![CDATA[http://www.nbcnews.com/business/chrysler-recalls-469-000-suvs-over-gearshift-problem-1C9893923

If you've had transmission issues with a recent Chrysler SUV, this may help.  ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28285014</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-12 22:11:22</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] Some Wheel Help Needed</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28279124</link>
<description><![CDATA[Hello All,
The car is a 1978 Delta 88 Royale, 4.3L, 260 cid V8.
I am trying to find some used 15 inch steel wheels for the car but they seem to have all but disappeared. One used wheel dealer has some but he needs to make sure that he is selling me the correct 15 inch wheels in order to clear the front disc brakes. All I know is that they are 15 X 6 with P225/75R15 tires on them. Any info on the dimensions of the wheels would be greatly appreciated. I have no idea what the offset, etc. is and cannot find reliable info on this.
Thanks very much.
Bruce]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28279124</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-10 13:10:18</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Just when you thought you saw everything...</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28263181</link>
<description><![CDATA[Helped a neighbor do his brakes.

He needed my impact wrench and torch to get the caliper bracket bolts off (Chevy has been using threadlock that is near diabolical.)

Get the caliper off only to find the inner brake pad is missing. The pistons were worn down at least 1/4 inch and all but seized.

I bet the idiot at "we do only brakes" ;) put the pads in and before he put the caliper back on the inner one fell off. Probably in too much of a hurry to notice.

So, new pads, rotors and caliper.

A few weeks before had a caddy SUV that threw all kinds of sparks when put in gear. I asked "who messed with it". He had some guy he met change the starter. That requires removing the engine mount.

Probably overtightened one bolt on the mount and it broke. I was able to screw the old bolt out by hand. Just under starter so when put in gear, the starter terminal hit the mount.

So, fridge has a good supply of beer due to work by idiots ;)
--
Scott Henion
Embedded Systems Consultant,
SHDesigns home - DIY Welder]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28263181</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-05 05:10:07</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>[Help] p0708 error 96 ford contour</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28276613</link>
<description><![CDATA[i got an engine check light p0708 / shifter malfunction or a sensor about 1 week ago. car ran fine. i got on the freeway today, and i felt a few sudden downshifts and back into overdrive at freeway speed. never done this before. got off freeway and the car shifted normally again. when engine light first came on was when i was parked and the green OD on/off light flashed. i put into park and light went out, but check engine light still remains on with the same error code p0708. please help me. ]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28276613</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-09 16:52:04</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Snowmobile help needed.</title>
<link>http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28280132</link>
<description><![CDATA[I know this is not technically "automotive", but there is no better section for it.

We have a 1993 Ski-Doo Safari Deluxe, and I am wondering a few things about the electrical system. I'm familiar with car/truck electrical systems, but snowmobiles are still a bit of a mystery to me.

Essentially, there doesn't seem to be any power getting to any of the lights, to the tach, or the handlebar warmers, even with a good battery and regardless if the engine is running or not. However the starter does function.

From what info I can find, it seems that most snowmobiles do not power the lights and warmers from the battery, and do not use a conventional alternator like a car, but instead some sort of magneto, and doesn't actually require the battery to produce power.

I can't find any fuses, so either they are hidden somewhere, or there are none. As for the magneto, it is pretty much inaccessible without removing the engine.

The fact that I can't find any manuals at all isn't helping either.

I know it's an old machine, but I'd very much like to get it working 100% again. It runs and drives fine but does need some serious TLC.]]></description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.dslreports.com/forum/remark,28280132</guid>
<pubDate>2013-05-10 19:01:04</pubDate>
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